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Few Simple-350kwv300kw Etc.. Questions

GTAAAH

By GTAAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
Posted

Hey just a few quick questions RE: lag..

I recently built my gtr up pretty well and now want to put some power through it.. I'm sticking with the twin turbo setup and am currently tossing up between 2860-7's or 2860-t5's/2530's. I just want to know the difference between 290-310kw's and 340-370kw's..

fastest car i've ever been in is a mates 32 gtr which had n1's and around 260kw.. Anyway basically, is there a way sum1 can compare this to a r32, with an rb20 powered engine? I've been in a few 220/230kw ones and used to drive a 165/180kw one (r34 turbo).. As it is currently a mates 170/180kw gts-t with a 34 turbo on it keeps up with me (not off the line obviously) the GTR running 11psi so i'm not so sure it will be a very accurate way of comparing it but.. What i'm wanting to know is more the lag difference, will the 50kw difference in a gts-t with mods listed be the same as a 50kw difference in a gtr with mods lifted, and at higher power lvls?

Will 350kw be crazily laggy? As in no more cornering? Because i don't want to just go 300kw's after having spent all that cashola on a fair decent rebuild, but if it's gonna take the fun out of driving it, and it's gonna make accelerating out of corners too difficult i might have to..

Also, gtr fuel pumps aren't good for that kind of power ay?

Cheers

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

As i posted in another thread

-7s/GT-SS/R31N1 - 300-330rwkw

-5/2530 - 360-400rwkw

-7s are the best choice for a street car. responsive as stock, with much more meaty midrange due to the added boost you can run

Makes your car feel like a big 4ltr N/A, basically power everywhere.

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh wow really, didn't think they'd even be close to as responsive as the stock ones :( Stock ones are as responsive as a stock rb20 i'd say so that's sweet, the 2530's wouldn't be much less responsive than one of those 220kw 32's

I've seen some people with GT-SS's and -7's only come up with 290/300kw and was a bit worried, 2530's are a pretty safe 350kw bet, theres nothing in between the gtss's/-7's and the 2530/-5's?

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted (edited)
Ok, a real noob question but i am what does the -7 mean? As in 2871R -7 or -5 or -10. Looking at a few turbo's at the moment and coming across all these minus numbers....

hey mate,

Im in the same boat as you!! lol gets confusing hey but this is taken from a trader on here

Garrett GT2860R-7 (R34 N1)

Power Rating (Max): 310hp (620hp the pair)

Details: This turbocharger set-up are OE (original equipment) from the Nissan Skyline R34 GTR N1. They come with adjustable garret actuators.

Garrett GT2860R-5 (HKS GT-SS Equivalents)

Power Rating (Max): 360hp each (720hp the pair)

Details: This turbocharger set-up have extremely similar specifications to the HKS GT2530. They come with adjustable garret actuators.

Garrett GT2860R-10 (HKS GT-RS Equivalents)

Power Rating (Max): 460hp each (920hp the pair)

Details: This turbocharger set-up have extremely similar specifications to the HKS GT-RS, these are a serious set-up.

Edited by Adz2332
GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh like he said except i think the 2860-7's i'm talking about won't be the nissan OEM ones but rebuilt ones.. pretty sure thats what the disco potato ones are anyway, anyone know if theres a turbo size in between the -7's and the 2860-5's/2530?

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted

GTAAAH

Get either the GT-SS or 2530's (or you want the cheaper alternative the 2860R 5 or 7). both will be great - I have a set of REAL HKS 2530's and they respond great :devil:

my nismo pump and stock injectors, AFM's ECU have made just shy of 300kw@w @ 18psi.

you can't lose!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I can't quite think of a much gayer goal than that. Please explain?!

lol :devil:

Well what doesnt make sense?

It feels like a much bigger motor.

Doesnt feel like a 2.6ltr turbo. See you get in a car with a turbo that comes on say what, 4000rpm. You know its got a turbo.

GT-SS/-7/R34N1 come on so smooth and early that you would think its just a big torqued N/A motor.

Literally there is power everywhere in every gear and you don't really have to 'wait' for boost like a bigger turbo setup.

Downgear off cruise, press pedal, off you go as boost is just 'there'. Its nothing like my GT30 setup, yet makes about the same power.

I mean if you want a peaky laggy setup to 'know' you've got a turbo, good for you... i enjoy my response :D

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
lol :devil:

Well what doesnt make sense?

It feels like a much bigger motor.

Doesnt feel like a 2.6ltr turbo. See you get in a car with a turbo that comes on say what, 4000rpm. You know its got a turbo.

GT-SS/-7/R34N1 come on so smooth and early that you would think its just a big torqued N/A motor.

Literally there is power everywhere in every gear and you don't really have to 'wait' for boost like a bigger turbo setup.

Downgear off cruise, press pedal, off you go as boost is just 'there'. Its nothing like my GT30 setup, yet makes about the same power.

I mean if you want a peaky laggy setup to 'know' you've got a turbo, good for you... i enjoy my response :D

And that's the advantage of the 3L and a big turbo...

Hit the throttle, while waiting for boost, you have torque, when it comes on boost... GONE!!!

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

Ash, your car is RWD isnt it? just throw the 26 head on a 30 bottom end with a set of -5's. It should be just as responsive as the 26 with the -7's and it would be hard to spot the difference between the two engines once in the engine bay.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yeah, wasn't interested in RB30 to be honest, restamping blocks illegally with incorrect engine numbers etc.

Happy with RB26 (plus id rather use a racepace 2.6ltr block with all the dev work done to it)

Just my own choice really end of the day as i picked up gt-ss's at a very good price when the yen was decent 2yrs ago

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

:D

I've looked in to the legality issues sought advice etc...

Larger turbo's, ECU, bigger injectors are not any less illegal than a larger motor. At the end of the day HP is HP.

If the car is insured and in a questionable accident suspected due to speed/hooning. The aftermarket ecu & larger turbo's will be found and insurance will be void as a result you may be up for the cost of car/property and bodily damage involved. Big $$ and thats still with the 2.6ltr.

When listing mods with the insurance company there is fine print stating it is on onus of your self to ensure mods listed are legal. If they are not well .... Insurance void.

Then there's the bodily insurance that is part of your registration. Illegal mods and insurance is void. Typically mods are not looked at unless it is suspected excessive speed has possibly attributed to the accident.

In short.. They won't go any easier on you just because its a 2.6ltr. Go the 3ltr, full crank collar, forged rods, pistons and ATI balancer (all the bits youd shove in to a tough rb26 anyway) and it will see 8-8.5k reliably with a hell of a lot more low and mid range which allows the sizing of a considerably larger turbo before drive ability is negatively impacted.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Good thing i wont have a problem with my speeding being the cause in the instance of a claim, i'm behaved when it comes to things like that :P

Anyway, this isn't a thread about me or legalities of upgrades... back to the main point :D

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

Think of the 50kw extra as lots of broken g/box's and front diffs etc. For half a second or one down the quarter for example the ongoing cost of 50kw is huge. I think drag is geh but its an example. A gtr with just under 300rwkw will go all day everyday on stock fuel pump/cams/inj/afm's/radiator etc. A gtr with 370rwkw break drivelines and with the extra power you need bigger inj/fuel pump/afm's/brakes/oil cooler/radiators and lots more to use it to its full potential and they cost big $.

Its not a matter of 50rwkw its the parts that are required to make the power plus the parts to keep it going.

I have 280rwkw guessed in my car reduced from 295rwkw as the inj were maxed and I turned the boost down to keep it safe. Its all you really need on the street or track until you learn how to drive a gtr properly and once you can drive it hard, your continually learn more about how the car handles instead of relying on power. Spend the extra money on good suspension and a 300rwkw will beat a 370rwkw on the track or street. Better off driving it with less power instead of working to pay for it to sit in a workshop and never driving it.

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