Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know how I stumbled across this but I ended up looking at all the regional memberships of SAU and realized that each one had different prices, I really don't mind as there is probably a good reason for it (such as WA being massive, insurance, events, etc.) but I was just curious and hoping someone could tell me why, I thought SAU was run by 1 group or are seprate and formed under a common name?

Region First Year/Renewal

SAU-WA: $45/$35

SAU-NSW: $60/$40

SAU-VIC: $70/$50

I couldn't find any details for the others

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242380-holy-different-prices-batman/
Share on other sites

Oh....Cool is there like a post of the history of SAU i'm kind of interested now I thought SAU was started by a group of guys I just kind of figured they got people form different states to start a section there

Membership also covers the costs of the individual "club". NSW and VIC get you CAMS membership as well. NSW membership gets you a night of debauchery with Dunkan, and SAU VIC membership gets you super awesome cool merchandise and possible induction into the "I used to drive a Skyline, but now I drive an Evo" club...

Oh and from memory SAU QLD was like $25 or something.

History thread... err.. somewhere...

Membership also covers the costs of the individual "club". NSW and VIC get you CAMS membership as well. NSW membership gets you a night of debauchery with Dunkan, and SAU VIC membership gets you super awesome cool merchandise and possible induction into the "I used to drive a Skyline, but now I drive an Evo" club...

Oh and from memory SAU QLD was like $25 or something.

History thread... err.. somewhere...

Yea different states = different insurance prices..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...