Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey guys

I was woundering if getting 280 or so KM's out of a tank of fuel in a R34 GTT is normal. Thats not driving like a granny or redlining every gear....hehe

Cheers!

DAYUM! lolz the car is really in need of a tune if its not stock or in need of a really good service, oils, fluids, air filter, fuel filter, o2 sensor, etc.

for example if ur car is not stock i know a guy with a decently worked and tuned r33 gtst that makes in excess of 300kw atw and gets just over 400kms. so there is something definately wrong there.

might need to get your air to fuel ratio's fixed up as u might be running abit rich. does the car feel smooth coming on boost? any smoke when you give it abit? does exhaust fumes smell very petrolly?

the smell you are getting out of the exhaust may indicate stuffed cats. both of my cats were blocked when i got my car and it gave off a really bad smell out of the exhaust and were blocking the exhaust flow. changed the cats, smell went away and got a small increase in fuel economy.

i'd also be inspecting all your fuel lines and also the fuel filler neck (they change the insert during compliance and sometimes it leaks). also check your o2 sensor is working correctly, clean your coolant temp sensor and check for any error codes using consult or datascan.

Yea what he said ^^ my car seemed to be running rich before so I changed the O2 sensor afterwords I was running noticeably leaner, and the fuel gauge goes down a lot slower (Havn't gone through a full tank yet)

i get 310kms to 1/2 then bout 150kms till empty on my rb20det in my r32, and its running rich as with black shit all over my rear bar. I just dont get how it uses so much in the last half, i drive normal 90% of the time nothing over 4.5 rpm so its got me stunned

i get 310kms to 1/2 then bout 150kms till empty on my rb20det in my r32, and its running rich as with black shit all over my rear bar. I just dont get how it uses so much in the last half, i drive normal 90% of the time nothing over 4.5 rpm so its got me stunned

The fuel guage thing will just be the intank gauge. My rx7 did the same thing after we installed a new fuel pump because we bent the bracket a little.

On topic, my r34 gets 450km from 50lt combined cycle. Mostly stock, exhaust/pod/safc/probfec B, 186rwkw.

I'd try your O2 sensor

have u got atmo BOV? this will do it every time

otherwise probably O2 sensor

Yeah i got bov its a Turbosmart Dual port.

http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=48

You can turn the top of it to open and close the vent inside. I have it Fully open. Can this be the reason?

I think its getting worse for some reason. The other night i chuck 20 litres of V Power in. Got Just under half tank. So far I've drove like 26K'm. And its gone down a bar....wtf?

i was happy when i drove 'more' normal and got 345km to a tank. would have got more but we have a road thats 27.3km paved before a few hundred km's of gravel, all twisties to avoid being bombed in ww2 and i usally lose 3/16's+ of a tank making a quick run (120 in 2 places, 140 everywhere else with 2 200+ spots)

But i averaged 260km - 310km most of the summer running a full tank down to 1/8.

mods :

all sensors cleaned

Stock 270cc injectors

Wolbro 255l

Nismo reg (56psi)

front facing plenum with 4 3/4" thick intercooler with 3" piping

Greddy td05 16g (1 to 1.3bar)

hks silent exaust turbo back with no cat

Greddy oil air seperator, oil filter relocation, breather tank

Act clutch, Nismo flywheel, Nismo solid shifter

and a Mines tuned ecu not tuned for the mods

Fuel was 94 octane ehtanol blended fuel running a shot of NOS Racing octane boost with every tank (never ran 100% without that exact combo of products)

Kinda funny seeing how proper tunes make all the difference in mileage. When i get my 550cc injectors z32 maf and to4e installed i'll send in the Mines unit to get retuned.

Try cleanaing or replacing your o2 sensour, clean your maf sensour and change out your fuel filter. Remeber that even the slightest increase in throttle position makes a tiny chain reaction that'll burn noticeably more fuel without much more gain in speed every little bit of turbo usage will effect your fuel consumption. Get a boost and air fuel gauge and you'll be susprised what even small changes in driving habit/style makes to overall fuel consumption.

But for the most part i just said screw it, i paid good money and worked my ass off working on this car and i'll be damned if i drive it like an econo-car. PEDAL TO THE METAL, AND LETS SEE HOW MANY GEARS SHE'LL KEEP SPINNIN THEM AT.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...