Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You will get better throttle response either way. And with the stock turbo i doubt you would be able to tell the difference between the two.

I had a split dump pipe on my car ages ago and i thought it was a great little upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244127-dump-pipes/#findComment-4251567
Share on other sites

correct me if i'm wrong, but split pipes are meant to work better (in theory) due to the turbulent air coming out of the turbo.. by splitting the wastegated exhaust down a separate pipe and re-joining the main flow at a later point where the turbo's air is less turbulent, it allows better flow for the wastegated gasses. This should allow for better flow.

however if the wastegate side of the split dump isn't large enough it could cause over boost (as Pal is experiencing) ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244127-dump-pipes/#findComment-4251715
Share on other sites

ive got the first one....fitted up pretty easy, definetly increased resonse and also a slight increase in psi (1-2psi).

bolted up nicely, just one bolt was abit hard to get to, but i just cut my open ended spanner in half so i can get in there and tighten it up

overall good product

chuck on a 3.5" hi flow cat while ur at it

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244127-dump-pipes/#findComment-4251879
Share on other sites

15psi on a stock turbo? It wont last long if you are

Either way, any of the products on offer from the traders will do.

Your not running a 300rwkw+ setup, so you don't need to spend up on custom, off the shelf is fine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244127-dump-pipes/#findComment-4252881
Share on other sites

There was a test i read once on large dump pipes versus split ones and the results were a higher low-mid torque increase using the HKS split dump pipe.

Top end power on the HKS was higher too but only marginally. CES was tested as the best as the split has the longest distance from the gate but its also probably the most pricey.

For me; im going tomei as i believe the differences would be so small, not really noticible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244127-dump-pipes/#findComment-4252929
Share on other sites

i got the just jap bell mouth and the xforce high flow cat, now running 10-11psi, vast improvement....

when i got my car dyno'd the other week it got 159.5rwkw with just exhaust/ front/dump and high flow cat running stock boost.... the stock r33's and r34's were getting 125-135rwkw, so quite a bit of power increase over stock

and 15psi on your stock turbo??????? you must want an excuse to high flow yours lol...

and unless your planning to get over 250rwkw i wouldnt bother choosing between the split or bellmouth pipes, even then you wouldn't really feel much of a difference..... a dyno machine will see it but i doubt you'll feel it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244127-dump-pipes/#findComment-4252933
Share on other sites

hey guys im not running a stock turbo.

ive got a GT30r 500hp roller, this is why im asking the difference.

im going for 300kw....eventually

i had it at 248rwkw but the injectors were maxxd out so im running at 221rwkw now....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244127-dump-pipes/#findComment-4253076
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...