Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All

Today i just had fitted front and rear whiteline sway bars car feels a lot better except the suspension place told me that the rear bar is very close to the diff like 1-2 mil or so now and may hit but it seemed ok when he took it down the road for a test drive

so i drive off expecting the worst ,and yeah has been making knocking sounds around turns esp going over bumps or talking off from a hill start cant take it back there till tomorrow morn

has anybody else had a issue like this?,

The sway bar i got part# BNR26XZ is actually listed in their catalog under gtr and for gts

apparently there is not room to adjust it either so this sucks guess i may have to try just the heavy duty one

what Rear sway bars did you guys get?, this is weird My Car is R32 GTS-t with rb25 conversion

cheers for any help

thanks

Graham

Hey, it going to hurt the ones i am going to have for sale. But the quality of Whiteline gear as gone to the dogs, and their bars damaged my sump. There is of course a reasonable reason why this has happened, but they were rubbish to fit, worked well and they are sold as a bolt on swap wich turns out you need links with to stop them damaging the car. Hell the holes in teh bar were too small for the botl to go through.

Be thankful its the rear and its just hitting the diff....think if it wa hitting a light gauge steel sump

...and while i am whinging. Their customer service is pretty ordinary. Sydneykid off the forum used to be the main reason i persevered as he provided the sort of service and support to the product required. Bt as all things in life, some changes with his work/life etc whatever means he isnt on here as often as he used to be and without his understanding and support of their product i am no longer a fan.

But, yeh as Ronin suggets links are the answer. Good luck with getting them...you may be best to just make some adjustable ones using rose joints, whcih any switched on suspension place will be able to do for you

Hey Roy,

So what sway bars would you suggest to use on the R32 GTR if not the whiteline gear.

cheers

rob

Hey, it going to hurt the ones i am going to have for sale. But the quality of Whiteline gear as gone to the dogs, and their bars damaged my sump. There is of course a reasonable reason why this has happened, but they were rubbish to fit, worked well and they are sold as a bolt on swap wich turns out you need links with to stop them damaging the car. Hell the holes in teh bar were too small for the botl to go through.

Be thankful its the rear and its just hitting the diff....think if it wa hitting a light gauge steel sump

...and while i am whinging. Their customer service is pretty ordinary. Sydneykid off the forum used to be the main reason i persevered as he provided the sort of service and support to the product required. Bt as all things in life, some changes with his work/life etc whatever means he isnt on here as often as he used to be and without his understanding and support of their product i am no longer a fan.

But, yeh as Ronin suggets links are the answer. Good luck with getting them...you may be best to just make some adjustable ones using rose joints, whcih any switched on suspension place will be able to do for you

if the yen ever comes back - I'm going to get a pair of cusco bars and bin the whiteline stuff.

I whole heartedly support the aussie industry (eg my ARE cooler) but the whiteline gear i have is the only stuff that doesn't work.

I'm going Japanese.

Hey Guys cheers for your input i took it back to the suspension place today he was good about it he mentioned about spacers/links like you mentioned but when i picked it up he was not there but one of his staff explained to me what they did which seemed to sound like they just re-adjusted it which gave more room

so maybe they didnt set it so well first time, took it for a test drive and i thought i heard it hit only once when i dropped the clutch a little in 2nd but i did have the old sway bar in the boot this time so it may have been that as i have not heard it since even after driving it in the hills

the car car feels so much better now than before, and all my bushes and shockers hicas lock bar had already been done months ago, but the car just did not feel right

so hopefully i don't here any knocking again and i will be happy

oh yeah and whitelines customer service all he could say was that the bar had to be fitted when the car is under full load on all 4 wheels which it was

the way it feels around turns now i don't think my tyres will last long lol

now to get a front strut brace brake stopper and momo steering wheel

thanks again

Let me start by saying the whiteline for all the hype about "how good we are", have very poor fitment! Just like 90% of the so called "bolt on" items (Name brand or not) that I have had to fix up or completely modify to fit/work properly. The whole import industry appears to have no form of regulation so the "I can make it cheaper than you" brigade continue to make ever cheaper/crap parts which forces good quality companies (hks,apexi etc) to bridge the gap and cheapen their parts. So, everyone loses because the cars we enjoy seem to have grown the stereo type of cheap performance! which tends to attract cheap skates who expect everything for nothing. Most of which wouldn't now the difference if you showed them 2 items from different ends of the quality stick and would probably follow closely with the question of which one is cheaper? I've gotten sick of the long list of disappointing (reputable) parts and now fabricate as much as possible myself.

Sorry. . . .End of rant

Back to whiteline - I don't think adjustable endlinks will fix the issue because that will only cahange the angle of the swaybar (if you get what I mean) which may give you some relief but I suspect not. My rear sway bar has a rediculous amount of clearance for where the exhaust goes through (which I made to tuck as high to the chassis as possible). So much so when I checked under my car just the other day, i found that it has almost completely worn through my protective guides for the handbrake cable. Not happy Jane.

I think a slightly more effective solution is going tho be spaceing the swaybar bushes down with some alloy block effectively lowering the entire swaybar. That said, adjustable end links may be necessary to achieve the ideal horizontal plane for the swaybar. If you are going to be pedantic about it, you could get the K-mac sway bars that has an adjustable length link and has a slide adjustment on the bar and supension arm of approx. 120mm to keep the end link perfectly vertical for correct swaybar response. Just some suggestions, hope it helps

I to had problems with my whiteline sway bar hitting but I ended up fixing it when the car was

slightly lowered but still not much gap there.Just like ellie said so much for the bolt on parts

which is a factor that make imports so popular.I to found every part that i fitted to my old

car had to be modifyed to fit properly.Getting back to swaybars I don't think I would buy

whiteline products again there really very ordinary, next time I might try K-mac give them

a go.

Just remember we are lucky with Skylines as swaybars are relatively easy to bolt on. It is not so easy on EVO Lancers and i know of a workshop that has a spare frotn end from a rear ended EVO in their workshop so that when they receive swaybars they use it for dummy setup as they are sick of having to explain to customers why they had to charge so much for ill fitting sway bar installatio

yep, ARC very nice. the cusco ones are great too, light and fit nicely but not adjustable.

and as for bolt on parts not being completely bolt on, that may be true for the aussie and chinese parts but having spent 10s and 10s of thousands over the years on japanese parts I would say 99% of the bolt on parts do actually bolt straight on. if you want quality you just have to be prepared to pay the right money for it. you buy cheap chinese parts, don't expect expensive part quality...

Cusco make some adjustable bars. Not sure if they do so for R32 Gt-R's, however.

Nope, non adjustable only for the 32GTR.

Looks like the ARC ones come as a front and rear kit with all links, nuts, bolts, washers as any good japanese bolt on, kit. There is hope yet... Though looks like that hope comes at a price....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...