Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys I have had my r33 gtst for 4 months now and have started looking at r32 gtrs. I have raced a few.... well tried to race and im sick of getting left behind, way behind. I want something a faster and this is the logical next step.

just wondering how many psi gtr stock turbos can handle, and how many KW's they are good for at the wheels. Mainly interested in how many KW's they can make on a safe everyday tune. i know they are getting old, and i dont want stupid 400 kw power, but i just want to know their limits. i have searched but could really find the conclusive answer i was after.

thanks guys

if they are in good condition (and it's impossible to tell, so just a gamble really) then they are good for around 260rwkw @ 1 bar. much more than that and they are spinning pretty fast and getting pretty hot for 20yo turbos. and at this age they could fail at any time. conversely they may live happily for years.

my advice, look for a GTR that has a nice set of small, direct replacement turbos already fitted. Like HKS GT-SS, or Nissan R34 N1s or the generic garret equivalents.

Although a little contraversial I think a set of dialed in cams for stock turbos are good for enhancing their power delivery.

You get bottom end like an RB30 and the driving experience is a fantastic improvement. You also don't need as much boost, timing or aggressice AFR to make the same power or greater. I had only one dyno printout retained from one initial tune (the lowest starting point) and it shows as much or even a little more power at 3,000 rpm than peoples Rb30 hybrids including stock turbo ones.

I am a few months away from doing the Tomie Cam / stock turbo combo again, so I can replicate the results I got last time. I will be doing a step by step on it and giving the cam timing settings and hopefully timing map info I wind up with to share, as setting up cams for people and lots of tuners is more 'magic' than science sometimes. So it's goos to have some info kicking about.

If anyone has a set of Tomei 260's they want to donate I'm happy to guinea pig them :yucky:

R32 motor - i wouldnt push past 12psi.

The motors/turbos are on borrowed time as it is. Running 1bar the chance of shitting a turbo, and then consequentally killing the motor is a likely result

I'd buy nothing less than a R33 GTR if your going to get into GTR's. 32's are just too far gone and clapped out.

And those that are not, are fetching prices that R33's sell for.

Other than that, GTR turbos, outputs/limitations have all been covered 100's of times now with much more detail.

If your that keen on finding out - the search is the place

Same as what Ash said 12 Psi = +0.8 Bar, +0.1 bar over standard.

Don't push the Ceramic turbos too hard.

R32, 33 or 34 GTR's, either way they will have to be rebuilt or replaced.

These cars from Japan are not treated as nicely as you think.

If you want a R32, just be prepared to fix things.

If you want a R33, just be prepared to fix things, maybe a year or 2 later.

Same goes for the R34.

if they are in good condition (and it's impossible to tell, so just a gamble really) then they are good for around 260rwkw @ 1 bar. much more than that and they are spinning pretty fast and getting pretty hot for 20yo turbos. and at this age they could fail at any time. conversely they may live happily for years.

Tune is also important as it effect exhaust temperature. So with old ceramic turbos its probably best to run a little richer that you otherwise might, to put less heat stress on the turbos. The factory rebuild period for the turbos is 100,000kms, and i'm sure that avoiding this maintenance is part of the problem with them letting go.

FWIW i'm running 13.5psi at 270kw, but while my midrange mixtures are 11.8, my high ends 12.2, so i'll get that brought down to 11.8 (and loose a little power) before i give the car any serious right foot encouragement.

It is a gamble really. bought a R33 GTR bout six months ago, an was told the wheels in the turbos had been replaced (and they hadn't) an was running 17 PSI for bout six months 12,000km with plenty of time spent at redline an never had any problems, till i did some more back ground research on the car and found the wheels hadn't bn. so just got some new garrets. but yer i dont suggest that much boost. if the wheels are okay i think 1 bar should be fine.

i run 13psi i wouldnt push much pass that 262rwkw 12.0 on the 1/4 mile

they will break at some time.... and remember a engine rebuild is easy 10g start doing turbos pfc ect ect add more to that!

hi guys I have had my r33 gtst for 4 months now and have started looking at r32 gtrs. I have raced a few.... well tried to race and im sick of getting left behind, way behind. I want something a faster and this is the logical next step.

just wondering how many psi gtr stock turbos can handle, and how many KW's they are good for at the wheels. Mainly interested in how many KW's they can make on a safe everyday tune. i know they are getting old, and i dont want stupid 400 kw power, but i just want to know their limits. i have searched but could really find the conclusive answer i was after.

thanks guys

hey mate im running stock r32 engine and turbos all i have are pod filters and exhaust and my output is 230rwkw luck of the draw i guess unless it was tuned up before it was imported but as far as i know thats stock for my car (that said there is a TOP SECRET tuning house sticker in the engine bay from japan). dont know how much harder you would want it to go but its my daily driver and i haven't been left behind yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...