Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock Airbox Q.

kidafa

By kidafa,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Was putting a Hi-Flow panel filter in the stag the other day and was wondering what the material is that is sort of clipped on to the top of the air box? The only reason i can think of for it to be their is for sound deadening? What do you guys think? Thinking if thats the only reason its going to get removed :banana:

Here it is:

post-40162-1226665272_thumb.jpg

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/
Share on other sites
RBPOWA-(TJ) Grand Master

RBPOWA-(TJ)

Posted
Posted
my k&n filter instructions say it's a "charcoal barrier and is part of the emissions system"

i left mine on cause there's no real gain in taking it off..

k&n. can you feel the gain, is it like having no box?

reason im asking, im using a pod atm wanna go back to box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4262621
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
k&n. can you feel the gain, is it like having no box?

reason im asking, im using a pod atm wanna go back to box

I got rid of my pod and put a Pipercross PP1128-MX in the airbox (cheaper than other brands) and put the snorkel back on. I am going to cut a hole in the front of the top half of the box and run a pipe from behind the LH headlight to add to the cold air supply.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4263002
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
i might pull it out then... no airbox lid feels more responsive, and no different to a pod?(filter on obviously)
Well that's right... no airbox lid will be similar to the pod in that your incoming air will be subject to the hot underbonnet temperatures. That's why you are better to leave the lid on and use the standard snorkel and/or a cold air supply system.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4263319
Share on other sites
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
Well that's right... no airbox lid will be similar to the pod in that your incoming air will be subject to the hot underbonnet temperatures. That's why you are better to leave the lid on and use the standard snorkel and/or a cold air supply system.

i am aware of that, the snorkel stayed on obviously... lid has been back on for a while, was just curious ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4264204
Share on other sites
jko_one Enthusiast

jko_one

Posted
Posted

how would it "deaden" any sound since the air is going in through a snorkel and a intake pipe and a filter that has no sound proofing

it would'nt just be that specific spot that would create a sound, would it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4267225
Share on other sites
jko_one Enthusiast

jko_one

Posted
Posted
k&n. can you feel the gain, is it like having no box?

reason im asking, im using a pod atm wanna go back to box

It add's a little more response and it seems to pull a little harder than with a paper filter and it lasts a lifetime, apparently.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4267228
Share on other sites
GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
how would it "deaden" any sound since the air is going in through a snorkel and a intake pipe and a filter that has no sound proofing

it would'nt just be that specific spot that would create a sound, would it?

I'm guessing it has an effect on how the air circulates within the airbox, and this is what reduces the noise. Maybe it creates sound at a certain frequency which "cancels out" other noises which naturally occur at an opposite end of the frequency range. This is how sound-cancelling headphones work, so maybe this is similar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4267255
Share on other sites
pork hunt drifting Rising Star

pork hunt drifting

Posted
Posted

im thinkn of replacing my stock panel with a k&n and somehow custom a larger snorkel and add a deflector. i think thatl be easiest way of improving flow and keep temp to min.

anyone done anything simalar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4276578
Share on other sites
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
im thinkn of replacing my stock panel with a k&n and somehow custom a larger snorkel and add a deflector. i think thatl be easiest way of improving flow and keep temp to min.

anyone done anything simalar.

oiled filter can foul the AFM, go with a dry filter such as an apex or similar panel or pod(even some cheaper brands should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4277153
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
im thinkn of replacing my stock panel with a k&n and somehow custom a larger snorkel and add a deflector. i think thatl be easiest way of improving flow and keep temp to min.

anyone done anything simalar.

Yep I got rid of my pod and fitted the original airbox and snorkel with a pipercross (PP1128-MX)filter. I am hoping to get an air deflector next month and I am also planning to cut a hole in the top of the airbox and run a pipe from behind the left hand headlight for an extra cold air supply. Will post up pics when done.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4277347
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...