Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Of all the vehicles I have worked on in my (long or short) life, if you drop a nut washer bolt or bit, Murphey's law will say you will never find it again. Sorta like dropping a piece of bred and jam, it will fall jam down. There are more hidey holes in a Stags front end than the Berlin Wall.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246539-have-you-noticed/
Share on other sites

My old man works on the occasional car, and he's lost a few sockets while working, usually while trying to access a nut or bolt that's either a. impossible to see but easy to reach, or b. impossible to reach but easy to see.

i dropped my brand new 12mm king tony ratchet ring spanner(21st present) while changing the wastegate actuator and it took me 3 hours to find . invloved all under trays off, wheel off . gaurd liner off . lots of swearing . it was inside the chassis rail that slopes down from the front to where the lower controll arm bolts on

I think I have finally got the Stag back together to a point where I wont have too much more dropsy. Manni, turbo and the oil/water lines are all on.

There is one bolt I cant get back in. It held a bracket that locked a water cooling line down at the rear of the P/S of the block. I hope that it is not tapped into an oil gallery. Does anyone know of this miscreant?

nuts/bolts always seem to fall into the ROV's I work on at work, generally have to be pulled apart to find it. Lots of electronics and lots of chances for electrical shorts, especially when the vehicle can move in any direction, pitch, roll, yaw etc.

Can't use a magnet because all nuts bolts are stainless.

I think I have finally got the Stag back together to a point where I wont have too much more dropsy. Manni, turbo and the oil/water lines are all on.

There is one bolt I cant get back in. It held a bracket that locked a water cooling line down at the rear of the P/S of the block. I hope that it is not tapped into an oil gallery. Does anyone know of this miscreant?

Pretty sure I know the one you mean; when I took my turbo off mine was loose and no sign of oil/water leaks... you might be alright. Should be reasonably easy to access by feel though...

Strange but the only two bolts I could not get back in were for the brackets that secure the water lines for the turbo. I had to take them out to get the banjo bolts back in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...