Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at building up my car early next year , currently i have around 190kw from fmic , dual stage boost switch , 3 stage heavy duty clutch , bosch 040 pump ,running 10psi , anyway i recently bought a power fc and since then getting around 300kw has been on the cards, and so far i reckon i will need new turbo i think its the hks one on just jap comes with oil lines etc etc , a new oil pump , bigger injectors , maybe twin 040 pumps??? forged pistons and new afm all the work will be done in adelaide either engine on its own or ill send the whole car down , im thinking of sending it to morpowa seeing as they originaly built the car to where it is now before i bought it. so basically what im asking is , have i missed anything??? and will the standard gearbox and diff hold up to the extra power??? im looking at spending no more than 15k any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246878-tell-me-what-you-think/
Share on other sites

to reliably get 300rwkw you will need a rebuild, a bigger turbo is a must (although you did not mention what you have, with 190rwkw i assume its not standard), oil pump will be fine but may need upgrading depending on what you want to do with the car, bigger injectors, i think a z32 afm will do the job, standard gear box will be fine depending on usage.

Try looking in the rb25 dyno section, that will show you what people have to achieve the power you want.

Also what is a 3 stage heavy duty clutch?

For 300rwkw my build would be as follows.

Decent front mount cooler Blitz or the like.

HKS 3037 Turbo kit @ 20ish psi

lower comp to around 8.5

Decent EBC

Nismo injectors 555's will do the job (740's leave more headroom)

Rebuild bottom end with Forges etc

Z32 AFM

Power FC

Not sure about the 040 but a Nismo Pump will do the job nicely

Gearbox will be fine for street use

Exedy Ceramic clutch

my 2c

buy a real GT3076 or HKS version if you are feeling the need, 550cc injectors, Z32 afm and run it around 270-280rwkw with good tuning on the standard bottom end will be enough to keep you going for a while. this should save you a pile of cash in the short term.

gradually assemble the parts for a forged bottom end if you are feeling the need.

my 2c

buy a real GT3076 or HKS version if you are feeling the need, 550cc injectors, Z32 afm and run it around 270-280rwkw with good tuning on the standard bottom end will be enough to keep you going for a while. this should save you a pile of cash in the short term.

gradually assemble the parts for a forged bottom end if you are feeling the need.

+1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...