Jump to content
SAU Community

Nzmo32 R32 Gtr Build Up.

Evocoop
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 170
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A bit going on with the skyline the last couple of weeks. I've installed the new 4.36 diff gears, installed the new adjustable radius rods and solid rear cradle bushes. Also put the interior in for the last time and started organising the battery leads and earth wire set up.

But yesterday was the day for the new colour to go down. The pics i have are not the best for showing off the colour but i'll try get some more if the sun ever comes out here in townsville ever again.

Masked up and ready for paint

DSC00536.jpg

And finished in the new R33 Midnight purple.

DSC00544.jpg

DSC00543.jpg

Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Little bit of work done over the last few days. I put the car back together after painting. Turned out pretty nice i think. also last night a bolted all the accessories onto the new motor so it's pretty much ready to go in the car.

DSC00559.jpg

DSC00552.jpg

DSC00556.jpg

Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, engine met car last night. Dropped the new engine in after some further deleting of unnessary junk like all the heater hoses and oil heater pack, Now it's way less cluttered under the plenum. Also ran the first scavange line from the back of the head to the pump as it would have been a mission to get it on there with the motor in place.

Still on the to do list is, finish the fuel system and change the injector plugs to fit the hks 1000cc, make all the intercooler piping, finish the oil system plumbing and make a coolant overflow bottle and also a breather tank. Plenty to do still. Hopefully get a windscreen in tomorrow to.

Pics as of last night.

DSC00561.jpg

DSC00562.jpg

Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ha ha. Thanks Ben. Although I have a decent shed at home the pics were taken down the back of my friends workshop that he lets me use. Note the dyno that 180's sittin on. I hope to be giving that a work out befor too long to. :P

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Haha Derrrr to me, didn't notice the dyno :P

I'm about to have a crack at fitting some Aerocatch bonnet pins, they look like a real prick! lol.... I got rid of the vertical bracket for the bonnet latch because it weighed 2.6kg.... lol, what a wacka!

Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah. Same here. should have them next week. I have a carbon bonnet that i don't really like that much to practice on so if i mess up it's no biggy. Let me know how you go with them. I've got a few ideas on how to line them up but untill they arrive and i can have a look at how they work i'm pretty clueless. defo nicer to look at than traditional pins though.

Something else to consider that my mod plate guy mentioned last week was a secondary locking catch that I, like you have ditched. I thought a secondry lock would be having 2 bonnet pins. But apparently, by the rules, the bonnet must lock down when just closed with out the pins in. So, like if you forget to put your pins in the bonnet can't fly up.

I'm not really that stressed about it but something to consider if ya get a copper that knows what they're on about.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Yeah mine rarely gets street driven so I'm not overly concerned. I think I'll still run a stainless cable to the centre original latch just to appease any scroot that might be in a mood.

I've made brackets, waiting for paint to dry. The issue with the R32 is the depth on the catches in relation to the radiator support. If it's a success I'll post some pics here ok?

If it's a disaster and I wreck my alloy bonnet I won't be back. lol

Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah mine rarely gets street driven so I'm not overly concerned. I think I'll still run a stainless cable to the centre original latch just to appease any scroot that might be in a mood.

I've made brackets, waiting for paint to dry. The issue with the R32 is the depth on the catches in relation to the radiator support. If it's a success I'll post some pics here ok?

If it's a disaster and I wreck my alloy bonnet I won't be back. lol

Righto mate. sounds like a plan.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok, done and dusted..... these look sweet! :thumbsup: Nice product!

** I used two different size hole saws to cut the radius and simply used a cutting wheel to remove the rest. Lots of masking tape around the area to stop any damage from swarf.

Made U shaped brackets to utilise an existing hole in the radiator support. The return down the front too to give some extra strength. Made these from 3mm steel. You can see I had to gring the bolt down a little to allow clearence.

22022001.jpg

22022003.jpg

This is the drivers side from under, nothing tricky really.

22022009-1.jpg

The passengers side was a little harder. I did this second to get the feel for it. This is a GTR bonnet so I hade to carefully remove some of the reo.

22022002.jpg

And the finished product! A bit of fine tuning is needed to get them just right, and it's very strong, not going anywhere. As a bonus the rubber stoppers they supply were the perfect length to allow a little preload so no rattles.

22022004.jpg

22022005.jpg

And a reminder that angle grinders with cutting wheels can bite.

22022006.jpg

Edited by Marlin
Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Awesome. That looks the goods Ben. I'll probably have to mount mine a little wider as the new radiator support comes out a bit past where you have mounted yours. but I'll be using your stepped plate idea for sure.

Take care of you fingers bud. I did something similar cutting out the hole for the oil header tank. probably why Grinders have guards but they just get in the way. Haha.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Car looks great, looks exactly the same as mine did in the oven :thumbsup:

I was reading about cages in the cams manual the other day and i remember reading that if you only had one brace in the main hoop, it had to be from behind the drivers head to the lower P/S...maybe check that out for piece of mind. I could be wrong though.

  • 2 weeks later...
Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Accusump came from a local cheapa auto spares who deal with presision industries who import the canton products. I found canton from googling accusump and worked backwards to find a oz dealer. It is a good idea but obviously not required with the dry sump.

Dropped the car off at a local custom shop to have the intercooler piping made today to match the ARC twin entry intercooler. I'm still using most of the greddy pipe kit except for the Y piece. Engine now only needs a breather tank, air filters, the injectors, fuel rail, reg and Bov fitted and is all done under the bonnet.

Also thinking about getting an ARC coolant bubbler set up. Has anyone had any experience with them or other air removal tanks that they can share???

Then back to the boot to finish the fuel system.

Also got a windscreen fitted last week.

Latest Pics

DSC00574.jpg

DSC00572.jpg

Edited by Evocoop

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...