Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rims can be 2 inches bigger than what is stated on the tyre placard.

Wheel track width cannot exceed 26mm from the maximum specified track width of the car in question.

So the MAX track width on, say a R32 GTR is 1506 front and rear.

Edited by CRoNic...
Rims can be 2 inches bigger than what is stated on the tyre placard.

Wheel track width cannot exceed 26mm from the maximum specified track width of the car in question.

So the MAX track width on, say a R32 GTR is 1506 front and rear.

they said the same track width for my 32 gtst when i went through for compliancing.

r32 and r33, both gts-t and GTR, are 1506 front and rear maximum track.

r34 gt-t and gt is 1506 front, 1496 rear, with GTR being same front and 1516 rear

*Thats from the August 08 Edition of "Passenger Car Wheel Track List - 1970 and later vehicles"

r32 and r33, both gts-t and GTR, are 1506 front and rear maximum track.

r34 gt-t and gt is 1506 front, 1496 rear, with GTR being same front and 1516 rear

*Thats from the August 08 Edition of "Passenger Car Wheel Track List - 1970 and later vehicles"

nice work bro

cheers :P

i went through regency today. i failed. they picked me on not having my srs airbag lights on when the ignition is on. now i have to get a certificate that says its working from their recommended workshops. so i went and opened the dash up, to find out that there was no bulb in the airbag slot. so i put a bulb in, but when i turned on the ignition it still doesnt go on. can anyone help?

no. ive always had a stock wheel. i checked the abd fuse, it was ok. and i put a bulb in the abs slot. still hasnt worked. i also connected the cable that sits under the drivers seat. yet it hasnt worked.

midlife

i would do that but the thing is, he says it should light up upon ignition - that your idea would fix that, but when he starts it - problem remains as the light would stay on. correct?

luke

i will give that a go.

thanks all

i also need a certificate that abs is working normally, does anyone here work at nissan? or know how much it would cost to get one of these certificates?

midlife

i would do that but the thing is, he says it should light up upon ignition - that your idea would fix that, but when he starts it - problem remains as the light would stay on. correct?

luke

i will give that a go.

thanks all

i also need a certificate that abs is working normally, does anyone here work at nissan? or know how much it would cost to get one of these certificates?

Engineer can provide the certificate.

Yep, got defected for my wheels 'hanging out of the guards' but still being in track and legal diameter. That's all he done me for, not to low or loud or ANYTHING other than that. I see that as revenue raising at its finest.

I'll be calling Regency tomorrow morning and explaining the lot to them. The officer even complimented me on how stock my car was! But I still got regency

guys, i went to a mates house yesterday to see if we could sort the airbag light problem. this is what we found...

1. putting another blub in didnt work

2. that there is constant live to the contacts of the airbag slot, as the multimeter shows that power is there but it is pulsing (power going up and down)

3. realised that the pulsing shows that the airbag light would have been flashing (if a blub was in) - hence typical flashing of airbag light ppl on here get

4. disconnected the airbag module that sits under the centre console where the handbrake is and the multimeter showed that power to the abs light slot was on constantly (power steady)

my question is ....

1. firstly, how do i get the light working again?

2. my airbag light (if it had a blub in) is flashing. we have tried the pressing of the door button but that doesnt do the trick. would plugging in a nissan consult be able to reset this or would it just detect that there is an error with the airbags.

3. as for getting a certificate the inspector at regency gave me a copy of repairers they recognise. must i have to use one of them or can i use anyone that can provide me with an engineers certificate. if i was to go to a repairer they recommend, would they just do a visual test to see the light works or would they have to plug in software. cause if they do, bridging the contact would be pointless - i would think.

i know its a long post, but it details what is wrong and any more help would be appreciated.

Edited by Nozila
Yep, got defected for my wheels 'hanging out of the guards' but still being in track and legal diameter. That's all he done me for, not to low or loud or ANYTHING other than that. I see that as revenue raising at its finest.

I'll be calling Regency tomorrow morning and explaining the lot to them. The officer even complimented me on how stock my car was! But I still got regency

Not cool.

Usually wheel-related defects, and only wheel related are a cop shop affair. So the cop musn't of liked you to send you to regency!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...