Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

After some opinions on semi slicks. I am going to start running Sprints at QR/Lakeside next year in a R32 GTST. It will be fairly basic just stripped out to reduce weight and a little extra power over standard.

I will run 16" standard rims but will spend some dollars on semi-slicks. I spoke to the Dunlop guy at QR on the weekend and he said about $400 per tyre. I think it is about the same for Bridgestones. I have seen some Toyos on Ebay for around $260.

So the question is how much difference is there in brands assuming all are semi slicks with same sizes?

I can understand that spending big dollars to gain an extra few percent if trying to run at the front of the field but I think I am a bit off that.

Anybody got any other suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys,

After some opinions on semi slicks. I am going to start running Sprints at QR/Lakeside next year in a R32 GTST. It will be fairly basic just stripped out to reduce weight and a little extra power over standard.

I will run 16" standard rims but will spend some dollars on semi-slicks. I spoke to the Dunlop guy at QR on the weekend and he said about $400 per tyre. I think it is about the same for Bridgestones. I have seen some Toyos on Ebay for around $260.

So the question is how much difference is there in brands assuming all are semi slicks with same sizes?

I can understand that spending big dollars to gain an extra few percent if trying to run at the front of the field but I think I am a bit off that.

Anybody got any other suggestions?

225/50*16 is the control tyre size for the older Saloon cars. They use Kumho V70As now. If you hunt around you may be able to get one of those guys to buy some tyres for you at their discounted price, or get some of their old tyres cheap. Otherwise, try Hornibrook Motorsport the QLD distributor forKumho Motorsport tyres. They may be cheaper anyway due to the higher volume they'd sell compared to other brands.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4306172
Share on other sites

here is where u buy bridgestone RE55s in brisbane

http://www.amecautocare.com.au/bridgestonetyres.htm

the dunlops are said to be just a little gripper, i still sue the re55s as there a little cheaper and still a very very good tires and they heat cycle very well so i can still use them on the street........... they only loose grip once they down the canvas which is awesome.......

i recomend re55 is start with then if u wanna go just that little faster later on buy the dunlops for the extra $150 a tire....

just my opion but, other ppl may have different ones

good luck buddy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4306376
Share on other sites

just a note.

I purchased 4x 18" 265x35 Re55s recently from Donnellan's in VIC and had them shipped to Brisbane $77each cheaper than the price quoted by Amec...

Make sure you check a couple of prices before buying semis...

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4306391
Share on other sites

slapper, did you have them buffed? full depth RA1 is only recommended for use as a wet. Hornibrook Motorsport can buff them for you - its not that expensive. They'll go at least a couple of laps longer after buffing and you'll probably get more life out of them too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4307048
Share on other sites

Just be careful what Toyo's you get - avoid the RA-1's, I've got these on my GTST and they are shockers on a hot summer's QR track (only get 1 lap out of them before they turn to marshmellow's). Go the RE55s.

TOYO R888 SEMI SLICK is what is advertised. They don't say what compound.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4307050
Share on other sites

I will run 16" standard rims but will spend some dollars on semi-slicks. I spoke to the Dunlop guy at QR on the weekend and he said about $400 per tyre. I think it is about the same for Bridgestones. I have seen some Toyos on Ebay for around $260.

Dunlops are expensive, but I didn't know they were that expensive. I pay that for R888s in 17". My Bridgestone RE55S cost $450 a corner in 17".

The R888s don't grip as well as the Dunlop offerings, but you should be able to get them new from an authorised dealer for $350/corner. They are one of the cheapest semi slicks out there.

I've found the best bang/buck are the Bridgestone RE55S. I'd get Dunlops if I could afford them and am chasing times, though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4307079
Share on other sites

Yeah I don't think there's much doubt that the Dunlop 03G is the fastest tyre at the moment. Be backed to backed them last year with the Kuhmos and they were nearly exactly a second a kay quicker.

I need new rubber for my 32 gts-t and I'm getting O3G's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4307091
Share on other sites

I was looking at putting R88s on my GT-R and ended up going with R1Rs - haven't got them on yet so I can't give you a definitive answer about their performance.

When I was researching, I spoke to a rep who suggested the R1Rs over the R888s, firstly because they obviously wear a lot better (think about the percentage of time you'll spend on the street) and also, being a newer design than the 888, has grip levels approaching the 888 without being so reliant on buffing or having good temp in them for max grip. Worth thinking about if you're not planning to be at the pointy end straight away.

I suspect you'll find the 888s on eBay are parallel imports, and GGG compound rather than GG. Naturally Toyo are going to protect their turf, but this PDF does have some valid points.

http://www.toyo.com.au/RacePDFs/Bulletin%2...oxes%20R888.pdf

Edited by Iron Chef
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4307195
Share on other sites

Are those 888's on ebay from st george tyres?

I used them before, was happy, got quite a few days out of them, but need new tyres asap also

Yeah they were from St George. checked online again today and they are only listing one size now. 225-40-18 $1450 a set.

they also are advertising Falken RT615 in various sizes. they are even cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4307551
Share on other sites

they also are advertising Falken RT615 in various sizes. they are even cheaper.

That's because Falken RT615s aren't an R-Compound tyre. They won't grip anywhere near as well as the R-Comps everyone else is suggesting, nor will they last as long before overheating.

The RT615s are not a proper circuit tyre. In a motorsport setting, I wouldn't consider them for anything other than a wet weather tyre or a hillclimb tyre.

Edited by scathing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248107-semi-slicks/#findComment-4309280
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...