Jump to content
SAU Community

Flared Guards Dilemma

passin ewe
 Share

Recommended Posts

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
Posted

As some of you would be aware, I recently purchased flares from Japan. There was a slight oversight on my behalf. The front ones fit nicely, and so do the rear, but I was,nt aware the rear one were made to suit a semi tubbed rear end. Your supposed to cut out your arches, I guess it makes sense as flared guareds are for putting bigger wheels under. Will cost $2000 to tub and then it must be approved by engineer, too much hassle. I think I might make extensions for the arch so that it covers the existing arch. I was going to bring a heavy duty hammer home from work an belt the crapper out of the arches, but on my coupe it's not exactly thin behind there, maybe lots of heat and accurate heavy handedness. Any ideas?post-44326-1229213130_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248820-flared-guards-dilemma/
Share on other sites
noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted
As some of you would be aware, I recently purchased flares from Japan. There was a slight oversight on my behalf. The front ones fit nicely, and so do the rear, but I was,nt aware the rear one were made to suit a semi tubbed rear end. Your supposed to cut out your arches, I guess it makes sense as flared guareds are for putting bigger wheels under. Will cost $2000 to tub and then it must be approved by engineer, too much hassle. I think I might make extensions for the arch so that it covers the existing arch. I was going to bring a heavy duty hammer home from work an belt the crapper out of the arches, but on my coupe it's not exactly thin behind there, maybe lots of heat and accurate heavy handedness. Any ideas?post-44326-1229213130_thumb.jpg

Check this out

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27682

Nigel

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Nigel, I just got off that site and now I think I know what i'm going to have to do.

PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT.

I'm guessing you would have to take it to an engineer after to have it approved?

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not sure if this will help.

There is a roller that you can use to flare the guards. I know it works on S13 and 180s.

Also Google "mud guard flares"

Edited by 66yostagea
noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted (edited)
if you're going to pay 2k just to get the gauards tubbed to fit them flares, you're better off seeing a fibreglasser and get them to custom make the flares to suit the rear of your car.

If it's to much trouble, just drive it down to Tassie, and sell it to me :-)

edit: Just noticed it's not a 240K, so I don't need it..

Nigel..

Edited by noddle
passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Does anyone know if the 240k coupe and the C210 coupe are the same in the rear wheel arch department. If so i'm probably going to have a go at following 240k convertibles procedure. It's just that when you look at how far up you need to cut. on the inside of the guard it looks like the skins are quite wide apart( at least 32mm).

Mr Camouflage Contributor

Mr Camouflage

Posted
Posted

Is the back edge molded to the body. ie does it follow the contours of the side of the car exactly? I'm assuming it does, which make my next suggestion a bit pointless, but maybe you could mount them lower down on the car and chop the ends off? Otherwise cutting the guards out is probably the only solution.

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea Mr Camo, the guards fit neatly against the body contours and Racsovn that's exactly what I'd be doing along with lowered springs.I think I'll put the flares on the back burner till I have the money to mini tub it." Oh that's right , Mr Rud just gave me $2000. Convince my wife that half is mine and now only need $1000, Thinking eh!

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted (edited)
I'm assuming by 240k you mean the c110. the C110 is a skyline, just like a c210. c210's are also known as 240k's

no, the rear guards are different.

Does the C210 has a "240K" badge on it ?, Since I haven't seen one up close, I though the C110 was the only "240K"

Nigel

Edited by noddle
passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Noddle, there's nothing on my car saying 240k,and I don't refer to it as a 240K. To me that's the C110. Saying that I've driven into tyre, suspension, and automotive workshops and they've all refered to it as a 240K. I tell most people it's a C210 78 skyline, it's easier that way

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Decided to go ahead with filling in some of the arch. I've fixed some light tin to the rear of the guard and I'll fibreglass over it. I'm still going to heat the arches and knock them out 20mm if possible." I just wanna get these guards on"

Will post a pic soon.

240k convertible Contributor

240k convertible

Posted
Posted

The first photo you posted looks pretty similar to how my C110 looked before I chopped into it. You only need to cut the rear qtr just above where the bottom of the frp arch goes to, run a pen along the bottom of the arch, angled a little upwards and it will show nearly exactly how much will need to come off.

The amount of time it will take you with the filling & fibreglass will be similar to doing the welding & cutting of the arch.

I cut the front guards a lot higher than the rears, this was due to the gap that was appearing the higher you cut in the rears. With all the photos I've seen of lowered C210's I'd guess that they have a very similar depth wheel well to the C110 so it should be possible to cut them up. If you could take some shots of the inside of the C210 well I'd have a better idea.

Cheers Andrew

post-25281-1229423098_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229430816_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229430997_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229431146_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229431456_thumb.jpg

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've got the next 2 days off and I'm going hard at my flares. The rear ones are going to be about 2 inches wider at the top once i've fibreglassed them. It may look a bit odd, but I'm just not prepared to cut into my arches at the mo. Maybe way down the track i'll order some more rear flares and do it all properly. i got offered some 15x8 mags today, they've got 235's on them, BUT he wants $1000 for them. The're off his 260z which he just sold. I've been told it'd be near impossible to find this size mag in 4 stud.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...