Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, stock afm's maxed about at 410 rwhp and 16psi, there's a fair bit more in the turbos and am looking for max 400rwk, has anyone done the RB20 swap? As far as i'm aware it's a menu option on the pfc- what's involved in wiring these in? are the plugs simple cut and shut? Other options are Z32- you have to cut and shut the plugs for these to yes? The nismo option seems to be similar in cost and without plug mods so feedback welcome- cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248839-r32-gtr-afm-upgrade/
Share on other sites

nismo afms are my pick, but new NISSAN Z32s work well too. I have seen a fair few people having problem with the bosch sourced Z32s though. plenty of people use them without problem, but like I said Ive seen quite a few with problems too. so yeah, for me it's nismo or nissan genuine Z32.

Thanks for the feedback fellas, like the idea of new afm's too- speaking to a wrecker I use a bit he reckons RB25 series 1 and rb20 afm's are the same deal, and 125 ea. as opposed to the minimum grand for the newbies. I could almost justify selling the pfc and getting a map sensor based ecu and with not having to buy new afm's not being too out of pocket at the end of the day also.

Twin rb20 or 25 AFM.s should do the job with only the larger piping causing issues. Should be able to get them on here for around $50 each. IMO twin z32's are overkill, as they will max out at over 500rwkw, and have poorer tuning resolution compared to 20/25 units.

See for yourself the air flow volumes versus the voltage output. By my reading there is sod all between the Nismo & the Z32's. The main difference is the Nismo item can be fitted to a stock airbox.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...26dett.html#afm

I would be interested in seeing the same curves for the Rb20/Rb25 units as I have heard some widely different stories about their capacities.

DO NOT USE NON GENUINE AFM.

We have had so much proplem's with aftermarket cheap copies that customer's source from who know's where.

Use genuine only.

We have OEM Z32 AFM in stock if that help's.

You will need to re-wire them in to suit but if you need info, more than willing to help.

Genuine Nismo are VERY good but make sure its genuine from nismo, not a cheap ebay copy, buyer beware (Ebay)

Edited by EFI Performance

Just on AFM's

Even though 2nd handies are cheap - they fail too often.

Maybe its my dumb luck, but ive had 2x bung sets of AFM's now in 6 months on my car.

One set failed big time, the other set i have in there now are slowly failing so no doubt will be stuffed in a month or 3...

So long term, the new AFM's might come out cheaper, i just dont have 1k for Nismo's at the moment, and i cant find a decent set of 2nd hand GTR AFM's to get my by lol.

Also too,

Make sure they are mounted correctly. More often than not a failed AFM is the result of broken solder joins in the AFM.

If they are bouncing around the engine bay this is accelrated quite rapidly.

6 months for an AFM, Id be looking at another cause of the problem. An AFM component failure under normal opperating conditions is actually pretty rare.

Yeah RB26 ones - when you think about it... they are 15years old give or take.

So it comes as no surprise to me :)

Dont worry about my mounting or anything, its all firm. I had a set in there that were fine, they were a loan set from a mate and worked flawlessly... but i had to give them back :P

So its not the plugs, i've done the whole trial/error thing so im 100% its the AFM's playing up.

They were both 2nd hand sets (stuffed ones), so im not surprised. New or known low KM ones have always been fine

I mean most Elec based things with Nissan seem to last about that time.

Coil packs, CAS, AFM, Ignitor - all seem to play up much more pronounced after the 10year marker is crossed, and 15years, just go buy a new one if it fails if you can afford.

I just need to find a genuine low KM set that hasnt been bashed around!

Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you dont!

Just in case anyone wants to know, the RB20 series 2/R33series1 afm's plug straight into the rb26, you can even stretch the inlet pipes over the 80mm rubber inlet snout on the front turbo, you need a pice of 3'' bent pipe to do the rear around the power steering res. Running 20psi reading 4.5 volts. And they're cheap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...