Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just to answer some of the questions

no im not insured

it broke traction in 2nd gear and got a 360 B4 stopping on a street sign

i dont want to fix the GTR because i was planing on selling it any way, theres no point in having 2 performance cars

im just gonna focus on the 180 and turn that into a 4wd monsta

to repair the car its gonna cost me to much money because it needs a respray and not only that i still need to fix up all the damages i done

its just not worth it in my eyes when ive got a 180 sitting here waiting for a engine

ive got a shit load of parts for sale now

my phone number is 04301 487 92

so if ur after any parts just give me a call

ive also got the shell and all that other crap for sale as well

Hks Triple Plate Clutch With Hks Lighten Flywheel

Recaro Sr3 Passenger & Driver Side

Power Fc D-jetro comes with all harness and map sensors $2000

R32 Gtr Front And Rear Bakes

Cusco Coil Overs With Swift Springs

How exactly can you tell that by looking at a couple of ordinary quality long distance photographs?

at the rick of keeping this going

because ive fixed alot worse myself and ive seen alot worse fixed... its not rocket science to tell that its not a massive hit and the whole car isnt bent like a banana :P

good luck with your transplant i cant wait to see the end result keep us updated!!!

bummer about your car mate. :P

personally I'd keep the 180 going with the SRV you had planned for it, and just use the money frmo parting out your GTR to fund it.

in the end you'll end up with basically a GTR with machperson strut suspension and a whole lot of work to get it going quickly.

by sticking with RWD and SR20 you get to keep it light weight, easy to build and repair and keep the balance as it was meant to be.

going GTR engine and AWD means more weight. more weight up front. lots more complexity and you don't have all that nice cash from selling the engine and driveline from the GTR.

but I reckon the best option is:

repair the GTR and sell it. use money to buy daily/tow car and fund the 180 track car.

bummer about your car mate. :P

personally I'd keep the 180 going with the SRV you had planned for it, and just use the money frmo parting out your GTR to fund it.

in the end you'll end up with basically a GTR with machperson strut suspension and a whole lot of work to get it going quickly.

by sticking with RWD and SR20 you get to keep it light weight, easy to build and repair and keep the balance as it was meant to be.

going GTR engine and AWD means more weight. more weight up front. lots more complexity and you don't have all that nice cash from selling the engine and driveline from the GTR.

but I reckon the best option is:

repair the GTR and sell it. use money to buy daily/tow car and fund the 180 track car.

What he said.

Sad to see mate. GL with it either way you go.

Are you going to part out much else of the car or just the parts you've listed?

To the optimists regarding repair: I'm not an expert but that really does look like it would have done some serious damage to the chassis which puts everything out of alignment.....

what does he know? just cause he owns 2 GTRs AND a silvia drift(ish) car... pfft...

lol :P

To be honest, there's very few things I like more then Silvias with an RB26 in them, an S15 26 will hopefully be my next car, so I say do it! Fitting the Attessa isn't impossible

im going ahead with the RB26 and 4wd conversion on the 180sx i always liked it more then the GTR which is why ill take wat i need from the GTR and sell wat i can and scrap watever i cant sell

if any one is after any parts of the GTR let me know because im only keeping the engine, drivetrain, front hubs

ive already got a Vspec rearend conversion done to my 180 so i dont need the rear end out of the R32 GTR so thats up for grabs as well

so if any one is looking for any thing just let me know

Ummm i was gonna offer some sympathy over the car but it seems your quite excited over the gtr powertrain

Has anyone ever tranfered the 4wd system into a silvia???? s13,14,15? seen plenty of rb26 swaps!

this may make your 180sx a daily as well as a race car.....much safer too and you can still drift it.

Yeah there is a mob that readilly make the kits to suit S13/14 and 15's in the states asa the GTR's are so expensive to register over there, it uses modified GTR drive train and a RB26 ofcourse, some people may have seen this S14 at a recent SEMA show, very impressive

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...