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in that socket 1155 they make i5 and i7 to suit

also the i7 has 2mb more cache and 100mhz faster i have just done a simple OC and im pushing 4ghz on the 1333 sniper ram more than enough to play BF3 once they polish the game more i should get a few more frames

ati cards always have driver / game issues, which is why I avoid and don't reccomend them to people (apart for use in HTPC or other non gaming).

TBH if you're sticking with 7200rpm drives in a new build you should damn well make sure that you're buying the fastest one with the most cache etc you can afford. Got me stumped how people are willing to lash out on processors etc but leave their drives as the bottleneck! (unless your budget really is that tight)

EDIT: furthermore to this, we are starting to exclusively rollout Vertex 2 spec SSDs in the next batches of workstations we are getting at work because it's become THAT much of a bottleneck.

Edited by bozodos

Hmmm i have run ATi since my 9800pro i danced with the devil for 4days while owning a 6800gtx but it didn't perform as good as the top ATi back then if i recall was the x800xt pe i ended up with a x850xt pe 1gb and was very happy i have always been happy with the cards games and anything i throw it it

i don't really OC my gfx cards or my systems by much

had a lot of bad times with my 4830 all driver related, did overclock the shit out of it in the end though hahaha.

Catalyst always seems to break shit; we run ATi in our Dell Optiplex fleet due to there being a lack of a Nvidia option, and the only issues we have are again drivers. Kinda fanboyish I know, but I've never had a problem with compatability from owning a TNT2 onwards with Nvidia cards.

yeah i had a TNT2 that was great i hod the old pci version when AGP just came out used to play sof2 with it and get all of 20fps

i keep my drivers updated too

and i don't always buy games when they're at there peak price

i may preorder bf3 however

So I'm going to get a i7 2600k along with a Z68 mobo of some kind just wondering what is a good aftermarket cooler for it?

I currently have a Zalman for my Q6600, seem to work fine.

Also what is currently the best bang for buck SSD out? Looking at the $250 - $350 mark. Only need 60Gb or so as it is only to be a OS drive. I'm getting a 600GB raptor for my games & all my old HDDs will carry over as storage drives.

My current gen 1 SSD is starting to die I think (randomly windows will freeze up & upon reboot, windows disk checker will pick up & fix some random corrupted files on the main OS drive).

SNIP

mobo: gigabyte Gigabyte GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3 $139 (you will want to know how many slots you want to use if using dual gfx you may loose the other pcie slot)

CPU: i7 2600 $285

Snip

i5 2500k will be more than enough for your intended purpose

I wouldnt bother with a locked 2600, an overclocked 2500k will surpass it with ease, as well as being about $75 cheaper.

With the money you save you can also get yourself a decent CPU cooler, or spend more on a GFX card :)

4.2ghz here with a 2500k and stock cooler :)

Main benefit of i7 is multiple threads per core but they don't really come into play with games (yet)

i am currently running 4.3ghz stock cooler and have read people getting 4.6ghz on a Coolmaster 212+ heatsink and fan combo

i can get 8.9sec in super pi 1.6 and just idling i get about 40deg and about 70 on 100% load

would be interested to see your superPI score so clean

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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