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Mine currently:

Rear Axle: Left Right

Camber: -2.08' -0.43'

Individual Toe: -0.1mm +0.1mm

Total Toe: +0.07mm

Geometric Axis: +0"01'

Front Axle: Left Right

Camber: -2"37' -1"20'

Individual Toe: +0.0mm +0.0mm

Total Toe: +0.0mm

Side Notes: Wheel alignment was done by Pedders Suspension at Artarmon. left hand side of the vehicle has previous accident damage from a large impact. Alignment machine was calibrated straight before the alignment was done.

Drivability: Car drives straight as a die, corners harder to the right than to the left, but handles like it's on rails, rides true straight, can let go of the wheel, roll straight, drive straight, and brake straight.

Anyway, lets here more.

B.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249969-the-giant-alignment-thread/
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Too much negative camber on the rear -1 is plenty

You also have basicly no toe on the rear. Toe it in 1mm each side

Front get a set of adjustable upper arms and set the camber to neg 1.5

Toe it out 1.5-2mm each side on the front, you'll notice the turn in will be alot sharper

Front Axle: Left Right

Camber : -1.71 -2.11

Individual toe : +1.5mm +1.5mm

Total Toe : +3mm

Rear axle: Left Right

Camber: -2.01 -2.17

Individual toe: +1.8mm +1.9mm

Total Toe: +3.6mm

Geometrical axis: +0.13

So far so good! Please correct these settings if you know better!

If your prepared to travel, East coast suspension are very good. If not then any pedders/bobjane/ tire shop with a decent machine can set the car up to whatever you tell them to do.

Just be sure you get a print out of what the results were so you can keep it for future reference.

Too much negative camber on the rear -1 is plenty

You also have basicly no toe on the rear. Toe it in 1mm each side

Front get a set of adjustable upper arms and set the camber to neg 1.5

Toe it out 1.5-2mm each side on the front, you'll notice the turn in will be alot sharper

i have adjustable noltec uppers, setting camber to neg 1.5 and toe to 1.5-2mm each side on the front, is this a std/recommended setting for 32GTR??

any toe for rear?? also roughly how much are alignment for 4wd cars??

I'm no expert at all. But I thought for street you want about 1mm toe in each side rear (for stability at speed), and zero toe for front. (Maybe I'm wrong but that's what I was going to ask for when I fit this HICAS lock bar)

Also thought front toe-in increased turn-in at the expense of increased understeer mid-corner. Toe out gives less turn-in but decreased understeer mid-corner (oh and increased tyre wear)

Edited by simpletool
I'm no expert at all. But I thought for street you want about 1mm toe in each side rear (for stability at speed), and zero toe for front. (Maybe I'm wrong but that's what I was going to ask for when I fit this HICAS lock bar)

Also thought front toe-in increased turn-in at the expense of increased understeer mid-corner. Toe out gives less turn-in but decreased understeer mid-corner (oh and increased tyre wear)

toe in is good for daily passenger cars, not so good for exploiting a good sport car chassis depending on the track we run lots of toe out :cheers:

i usually leave the rear about 1.5mm toe in per side (3mm total toe in).

Went to Artarmon Pedders today (round the corner) the blokes there are tops!

Anyway

REAR SETUP:

Camber - Left: -2.19 Right: -2.09 (I run 19's now so camber is an issue, standard adjustments)

Individual Toe: Rear Left: +0.6 rear right: +0.6

FRONT SETUP:

Camber - Left: -1.44 Front -1.22 (front rides 10mm higher)

Individual Toe - 0.5 - 0.5

Geo Axis - Nill

Edited by DECIM8
Went to Artarmon Pedders today (round the corner) the blokes there are tops!

Next time your there, tell him Brian with the Silver GTR said to say G'day.

I use Scott at Pedders, he knows my car well, and was willing to do my last alignment for free (straight after a repair job on the car to check everything over).

He will be doing most of my work, he calibrates the machine before I get the car up there, knows his stuff, and is up front and bloody honest when it comes to the car.

Yes, my left hand side is way out camber wise, but there is reasons for this (car has a few small issues). Will be getting some new gear to resovle my issues, but she drives alright.

BTW, for those who dont know, the more toe-in you have in the front, the snappier and tighter steering will feel. When I first got my car back from the repairer, it dead-set felt like a racing car, and I found the Toe-in at the front to be 5.8mm and the rears to be 3mm. Now it's less 'exciting' in the steering department, but not as wrestle-happy either, quite comfortable to drive.

I will be getting numerous adjustments done to further tweak the handling.

B.

r32 drift n track car only

current drift set up

front right - 1.6 deg front left- 1.6 deg

caster +10 deg

front total toe 4mm

rear right -.5 left -.5

total toe 0

corner weighted

51/49 % front to rear

1259 kg with driver n half a tank

need more front camber but i want to see how it handled before i modded the front end

will go to around 3.0 n see how it feels

for circuit i would run a little more rear toe n rear camber + shock,spring n bar changes

i woud be keen to c what other drifters r running

and why is no one eles posting caster

caster is your friend

  • 1 year later...

Whats a good short course/motorkhana/slow speed alignment set up?

I have a 32gtst, coils, caster arms, rear camber arms, pinapples, rack extension and ends etc....

Ha ha ha,, and a turbo that's waaay to big!

Whats a good short course/motorkhana/slow speed alignment set up?

I have a 32gtst, coils, caster arms, rear camber arms, pinapples, rack extension and ends etc....

Ha ha ha,, and a turbo that's waaay to big!

well my car does that stuff well. I'm no expert but here goes.

Front Camber, -3.5

Castor, 6.5

ride height, 350mm

Toe, - 1mm total toe out, 0.5mm each side

Rear camber, -1.5

Ride height, 340mm

Rear Toe, 3.4 Total Toe IN

thats on Toyo R888's in my 33 gtst.

cheers

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