Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok this morning, i flushed out the coolant, put some coolant flush through it to try and unclog any blockages, then filled it up bled it by having the cap off and heater in full ball and now we wait and see if it is all good..will keep posted

Overheating is also caused by a worn clutch fan. These can be refilled with silicon oil for around $10 or bought new for $300....i prefered the $10 option.

Brand new price is >$300 :)

And $10 for new oil? I had no idea you could just replace that...clutch fan is easy to test anyway...once the engine is warmed up it shouldn't free spin anymore, it should be locking a little at idle...

howd u go?

as above, about halfway on the gauge is around 80 degrees or so.

In regards to the horn

on my old VL I had a similar problem where it would go off randomly, one time i was driving down my driveway just about to pull onto the road and it just went off and wouldnt stop. This happened just as a cop car was driving past lol lucky they didnt seem to care. Anyways, it was an aftermarket steering wheel and if i tightened it up to tight that would cause it to go off when i indicated or turned or something like that, it was also blowing a fuse which would make the relay for the horn click on and have it go off. It was due to a bad earth or something so just check the wiring, if youve got a standard steering wheel that uve never touched then it probably wont be that but just an idea for you

howd u go?

as above, about halfway on the gauge is around 80 degrees or so.

In regards to the horn

on my old VL I had a similar problem where it would go off randomly, one time i was driving down my driveway just about to pull onto the road and it just went off and wouldnt stop. This happened just as a cop car was driving past lol lucky they didnt seem to care. Anyways, it was an aftermarket steering wheel and if i tightened it up to tight that would cause it to go off when i indicated or turned or something like that, it was also blowing a fuse which would make the relay for the horn click on and have it go off. It was due to a bad earth or something so just check the wiring, if youve got a standard steering wheel that uve never touched then it probably wont be that but just an idea for you

yeah all went well thanks dude, prob go to the radiator specialists tomorrow to try and get a pressure test done to see exactly what was happening.

Nah the horn is stock standard, prob is it has an airbag so i cant just remove it, but i kno what u saying mine goes off sometimes at the slightest turn roundabouts mainly and sometimes it goes mental and wont stop and i just have to press the horn button on the wheel and it stops really fkn weird, it actually one time went off when the car was parked in the garage and i slammed the bonnet shut it was mental...no one seems to know

ok i went to natrad in seaford today highly recommended by the way and he took the hose off and found the problem right away, the part of the radiator that the top hose connects to has broken off the ridge part that stops it from sliding off when the hose clamp is on....it was broken in the hose and we just fished it out and pretty much now need a new top filler bottle, was quoted $260 hope thats a good price anyway for the time being he put this plastic ridge on it dont know how he did it...like this blue silicon stuff, very dodgy as he said but will get me by til i get it fixed

so we shall see how it goes now

thanks for all the help people always appreciated

well for a update today whilst driving the car overheated again pulled off opened bonnet and what do u know the hose has not blown off this time so I was stumped, however the steam was coming from the other end of the top radiator hose the one that connects to the engine, I felt the clamp and it felt lose so I gt my screwdriver out and I could move the hose clamp around so I tightened it, put water back in and it was fine was at normal temp, the racv dude reckons all it water hoses under the engine need to be replaced as they are still original does that sound right? I was on nepean hwy just past edithvale station is anyone saw me LOL

Old hoses become brittle and do not flex enough to seal. So new hoses might be the go. Natrad should have told you this though? Usually they jump at the chance to sell you more shit.

Replace the hose and the clamp, cheap as chips, be sure to clean the connecting pipe on the engine side. Also, while you have that pipe off you can check the thermostat for jamming.

Good luck and let us know how you go.

Old hoses become brittle and do not flex enough to seal. So new hoses might be the go. Natrad should have told you this though? Usually they jump at the chance to sell you more shit.

Replace the hose and the clamp, cheap as chips, be sure to clean the connecting pipe on the engine side. Also, while you have that pipe off you can check the thermostat for jamming.

Good luck and let us know how you go.

i rang the radiator guy and he said he couldnt beleive he forgot to check the other end of the hose...he reckons they dont build up pressure if its actually lose...how on earth am i gona replace all the hoses under the engine lol that will cost a fortune as i would prob have to order from nissan who are not cheap.....i will replace the engine hose and clamp at the very least

silly question where is the thermostat exactly located so i can check it?

arghh the bottom radiator hose is such a bitch to undo lol i did it to drain the radiator as i couldnt locate the valve to open it and then when i had to put it back on pwahhh the chassis got in the way big time...will check ebay now thanks dude

Id say with the horn thing if ur pressing the horn button on your steering wheel and thats making it go away then its probably a problem up around the steering wheel area as i said before. Dunno how u go about pulling the steering wheel off to check it seen as it has an air bag

maybe pull the colum surround off and try to look up and see if u can see any thing loose or broken

Thats my guess anyway....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...