Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, I was looking to reduce the amount of body roll in my r33, and was wondering if cutting the springs would be sufficient (until I can afford sum coilovers of course). Is there any way of doing it at home? (ie: without special tools)?

how much should I cut off?

and do you cut it off the top of the spring or bottom?

any help is much appreciated, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251067-cutting-springs-on-r33/
Share on other sites

ah theres som good advice, cheers nightsky. think thats is my best bet. Im aware that it puts heapsa stuf out of whack, I think the desperation of not being able to cut lap of a tight roundabout without bottoming out got the betta of me haha.

im off to shop 4 sum swaybars !!

so u guys rekon whiteline do good stuff?

Firstly dont cut your springs, this is something uneducated bogans do to their commonwhores.

Secondly all it will do is lower the ride height and put all of your spring rates out of whack.

If you want less body roll buy a set of sway bars like Whiteline. They will reduce body roll alot until you can afford your coilovers.

also get your self front and rear strut brace. i had that installed in my R33 and did notice a big differance in handling. a set of front and rear strut brace you could find for under $300

but ye no no on chopping springs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...