Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 series 1 FMIC, full exhuast, GCG GT3082R bolt on kit runs done at 18psi.

Auto 241.7rwkw (381.7nm) (thin blue line)

Manual 277.6rwkw (429.9nm) (thick blue line)

Auto 200rpm better response (normal of course)

Vct was set @ 7000 to produce best power and curve, red dyno line is vct set at factory point..... massive loss of mid range.

This VCT drop is very common on just about any turbo making over 250rwkw it just isnt as easy to pick up on with a inertia dyno, i see it alot in cars that come in for dyno runs.... moving the VCT point up towards redline until it smotths out is the bst way to fix it generally between 6200 and 7000 yields the best results.

post-34927-1231291314_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1231291324_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1231291656_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yup pfc set value. (switch point)

that value is where the VCT is switched off. The way i thought the vct works is that it switches on at about 1500rpm (cannot change this on pfc) then switch's off at 4000rpm (or whatever you have set in the pfc software)

So this means that you have a massive inlet cam advance all the way to red line... I was told the engine would start to ping if you did this, did you run the K-MON on this engine when tuning it ?

Would be interesting to see this with the R34 and their apparently "improved" electronic lock-up torque converter (Nissans "E-flow") either way I've always factored 33% loss in the autos, some people have been way to conservative on the actual loss.

Hmm interesting, might have to play around with this on the next tune. Have you found this only works with stock cams, or will something like Poncams still have the same benefit moving the VCT switch point that high?

that value is where the VCT is switched off. The way i thought the vct works is that it switches on at about 1500rpm (cannot change this on pfc) then switch's off at 4000rpm (or whatever you have set in the pfc software)

So this means that you have a massive inlet cam advance all the way to red line... I was told the engine would start to ping if you did this, did you run the K-MON on this engine when tuning it ?

correct, i set the PFC switch point to 7000 (on this particular car)

K-mon is always connected :P timing curve is nice and strong.... no sign of det, even on the most aggressive ramp (1sec for every 370rpm or 15 sec in total)

Hmm interesting, might have to play around with this on the next tune. Have you found this only works with stock cams, or will something like Poncams still have the same benefit moving the VCT switch point that high?

well on SR's (S15 etc) which run the same setup the results are similar with poncams, i think i have athids graphs (peak of 300rwkw but with varying midrange with each differrent switch point) somewhere where i incresed the switching point in 1000rpm increments on each run until it was smooth. i will see if i saved it.

with the new wastegate actuator im at 330 rwkws

with a 2800 high stall and standard trans but fully built by MV Auto.

i should come for a drive to see you trent and then run the car at the street drags in melb.

i will be selling the car soon so it would be nice to see its potential before she goes.

Are you sure the VCT is working at all - I havn't seen that work before. I would have though that you would kill you top end - the engine has oil pressure right??? :)

I would have asked this question, but i think trent knows what he is doing. it does sound far fetched but it takes a game tuner to try new things like this and put them to test.

So :P - i might do some testing next time i have my car on the dyno

Are you sure the VCT is working at all - I havn't seen that work before. I would have though that you would kill you top end - the engine has oil pressure right??? :D

yeah, i start from 4000rpm and move the point upwards until the area under the curve is largest/ smoothest. I only included one run (red one) on the print out as it gets pretty busy with 6 runs overlayed.

sooo the auto will be slower ?????

Hard to say without running it down the strip, i reckon from seat of the pants the auto with its shift kit was quicker especially outta the hole but no doubt the manual would run a better MPH.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...