Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a question for ya, you mentioned a plazmaman plenum. Will this fit under the bonnet with a RB30/25 since the RB30 will raise the engine height a bit? Because i've looked at mine before and i swear with the extra height of a RB30 the front of the plenum will hit the bonnet.

^^^^^Have you seen what else they have run on the stock bottom end. There is a recent post by rips in the rb30 section. A built standard bottom end will handle that with some mods.

quote from rips

I can also vouch for stock RB30 cranks to 9000rpm 1000+hp, and stock RB30, pistons and rods to 8000rpm and over 500rwkw in a track car without problems, although I usually tell my customers 7200rpm, 1.5 bar 400rwkw.

If have money to burn.....

Edited by Bond

Why dont you guys just build your own engines? Do a bit of research like everyone else (there is so much of it on this forum its not funny) and instruct an engine builder to build it to your specs. You could do it for half the price

Why dont you guys just build your own engines? Do a bit of research like everyone else (there is so much of it on this forum its not funny) and instruct an engine builder to build it to your specs. You could do it for half the price

Agreed... Between the PDF, Oil control thread, and the conversion thread theres not much else you need.

...apart from the tools, the time, the space and the confidence that you wont make an elementary mistake that will involve having the engine pulled and the job done properly by someone you should have paid in the first place.

because i'm lazy and rips are experienced and well reccomended

haha +1

Furthermore, I just don't have the confidence to do it myself and ask a mechanic to build it. WHat happens if I get something wrong, I can only blame myself, whereas if the mechanic does it all, and something turns out foul, you can point the finger/gun at him.

But yes, as always, there is a premium associated with the mechanic doing all of this.

I guess it's too late anyways for me as I've already paid the mechanic.

Here's a question for ya, you mentioned a plazmaman plenum. Will this fit under the bonnet with a RB30/25 since the RB30 will raise the engine height a bit? Because i've looked at mine before and i swear with the extra height of a RB30 the front of the plenum will hit the bonnet.

Might be different in a 33 but I looked at that and it definitely wasn't going to fit in my 32. That is why I had a custom manifold made out of my stock runners and a 26 plenum :D

Why dont you guys just build your own engines? Do a bit of research like everyone else (there is so much of it on this forum its not funny) and instruct an engine builder to build it to your specs. You could do it for half the price

+1

Might be different in a 33 but I looked at that and it definitely wasn't going to fit in my 32. That is why I had a custom manifold made out of my stock runners and a 26 plenum :D

Yeah thats what i thought. I dont think a plazmaman plenum will fit under the bonnet on a 30/25 in a skyline. Might have to look into this Turbz-RB25.

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't $8,700 for a fully forged RB30 engine a little too expensive?

my old boss had to fork out roughly 10k on his rb30 block but that had block strengthening done to it as they prone on cracking

plus depends what brand you're using, also you're getting it all prepped for the forgies to go in, so yeah i'd say maybe not quite that

but very close to it

my old boss had to fork out roughly 10k on his rb30 block but that had block strengthening done to it as they prone on cracking

plus depends what brand you're using, also you're getting it all prepped for the forgies to go in, so yeah i'd say maybe not quite that

but very close to it

Prone to cracking? More info please, RIPS 8 second stock bottom end seems to differ. The only part of the rb30 "prone" to cracking is the oil pump, and thats if you use something other than an rb30 pump.

For $8700, i would be wanting a high end oil pump.IMO its the first place you should spend the money on an rb bottom end(although i didn't)

This is what is included in the package:

Used RB30 short engine

Drilled and tapped to fit RB25 head studs

Engine is stripped and chemically cleaned

Block rebored and torque plate honed

Head gasket surface CBN milled to suit MLS gaskets

Crankshaft balanced, micropolished and fitted with screw in oil gallery plugs

Oil pump drive collar supplied and fitted

Connecting rods resized, fitted with new bolts and pin bushes and balanced

Short engine assembled using new forged pistons and rings, ACL race series bearings, new N1 oil pump, seals, painted and fitted with oil & water plugs.

Plus the mechanic is porting the head, as well as fitting the bottom end to the head.

So it's not just the engine itself, it's the porting of the head and fitting the block which raises the price to $8,700.

Not to mention that exchange rates have an impact upon parts, so stuff would have been cheaper in june 2008 when our dollar bought 0.98USD.

Cheers for your help fellas

eeeeeeeeeek your telling us its $8700 for a $3000 port job and then $5700 for a basic rebuilt with stock rods and crank?

Sorry, rods aren't stock. they are spool RB30 forged H-Beam rods.

They cost around $850 just for themselves.

So you guys still think it's expensive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...