Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a track day coming up soon and i have 18x10s front and back on a r33 gtst now what would be the go with stretched tyres ill be only doing 4 to 5 laps at a time one which is a warm up and one which is a cool down (don't ask) so two laps at full pace,what do you guys think about these sizes.

F 245/40

R 245/40

F 245/35

R 245/35

F 255/35

R 255/35

F 255/35

R 265/35

as for brand any ideas they must be UTQG rating higher than 100 and um (wtfit)

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251708-stretched-tyres-for-track-days/
Share on other sites

depends on the sidewall, but those sizes u put up are not much of a stretch, well within safe.

with 309kw (going by ur sig) id be going for a staggered sizes, give a bit more meat on the rear to help get the power down.

for a 18x10 id be going 245/40 or 255/40 front, 265/35 or 275/35 rear. depends on the availability and price etc

depends on the sidewall, but those sizes u put up are not much of a stretch, well within safe.

with 309kw (going by ur sig) id be going for a staggered sizes, give a bit more meat on the rear to help get the power down.

for a 18x10 id be going 245/40 or 255/40 front, 265/35 or 275/35 rear. depends on the availability and price etc

my sponsor is buying the tread,and as for 309kw i hope to be up to 330kw by that day with new products.

one quick thing i can't remember why 40 in front and 35 in back i did that with my 17 45f and 40 back but i can't think why i did it...lol

i was thinking 35 in the front to make sure i clear everything under load in corners.

the 35 at the rear is because its wider, since the profile is a aspect ratio, the 35 on the 265 will have a similar size sidewall height to a 245 with a 40 profile.

what about if i go for more clearance in the front with 255/35 and what 266/35 or 275/35 or 30

thanks nisskid

no body knows if stretched tires are bad or good for track days,sure some smart person would know something factual.

the sizes u posted arent stretched, well not much at least, they will be fine, albeit not as grippy as something wider. not exactly sure what response ur after? wider will have more traction yes.

no body knows if stretched tires are bad or good for track days,sure some smart person would know something factual.

Tyres are designed/engineered to fit a specific rim/rims. If you fit tyres to a rim that is outside that specific range you can:

* Reduce grip through contact patch distortion

* Risk either - Beads unseating from bead seat

* Damaging Bead and or Sidewall because it is being distorted and was designed to be used in this way.

My advice don't do it.

Tyres are designed/engineered to fit a specific rim/rims. If you fit tyres to a rim that is outside that specific range you can:

* Reduce grip through contact patch distortion

* Risk either - Beads unseating from bead seat

* Damaging Bead and or Sidewall because it is being distorted and was designed to be used in this way.

My advice don't do it.

lol at those 2 points. how many cases have u heard of that happening? its just tyre shops/manufacturers saving their arse. the biggest issue ull have with stretched tyres (im talking properly stretched tyres, like <205's on 10" rims) the tyre can roll off the bead.

lol at those 2 points. how many cases have u heard of that happening? its just tyre shops/manufacturers saving their arse. the biggest issue ull have with stretched tyres (im talking properly stretched tyres, like <205's on 10" rims) the tyre can roll off the bead.

Lol at everybodys relaxed attitudes towards "strecthing" tyres. I see damage from missuse and misapplication with tyres everyday - everyone is an expert. What would the engineers and the independent tyre & rim standard engineer/members know. The good old "she'll be right attitude"

While your at it why not leave the wheel nuts undone.

Edited by Potenza

any documented cases?

because ive never heard of any, i'm sure they are around, but the fact i havnt seen one tells me they arent very common.

a 245 on a 10" is only one size under the reccomended, do u really think tyre manufacturers would reccomend a 255 on a 10" rim if they knew the size under could potentially cause a failure, resulting is pretty massive compensation?

they keep a massive safety margin because they can, theres no need to reccomend a 245 on a 10", it doesnt make any significant impact on sales, but it gives them a massive cushion for any complaints.

I ran 225 40 r 17's on 9" rims on my GTR around barbagallo on my first outing there, had no issues. Stretching the tire gives you a bit more response as there is less sidewall flex but you could have better grip with a wider tire...

Tires were Bridgestone potenza's re050 was bouncing the ripple strips all day with them :D

how many V8 supercars do you see with fully sick stretched rear tyres onto 11ty billion inch width rear rims?

how many rally cars do you see with stretched tyres?

how many F1 cars do you see with stretched tyres?

If it was any performance benefit these boys would be all over it before you'd even heard of it.

if we're talking about performance, then the right size spec tyre (near vertical sidewalls, if a little leant over toward to tread) will perform the best.

you don't see lambos, fezzas, porkers coming from factory with a 225 on a 10 inch rim, for a reason.

yep.

We run 245's on our 9.5" rims and 265's on our 10.5" rims for best results. So on a 10" maybe a 255 would be the way to go but it's generally not a common size in which case I'd tend towards the 265's before the 245's.

yep.

We run 245's on our 9.5" rims and 265's on our 10.5" rims for best results. So on a 10" maybe a 255 would be the way to go but it's generally not a common size in which case I'd tend towards the 265's before the 245's.

what size 255/35 or 255/40.

thanks.

For a baseline to work within ask the tyre vendor, or hopefully just check their website. They publish what rim sizes are suitable for which tyre. Even if the sizes are identical, different tyre models can sometimes accept slightly different rim widths.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
×
×
  • Create New...