Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Correct Lith, it is a twin scroll setup. I keep looking up sleeves for hidden cards but at this stage it is showing remarkedly similar boost characteristics to the 35r single entry. Its only running gate spring pressure at this stage but until the gate starts open on spring pressure the curve is identical.

Waiting on a wide band sensor to arrive and then we'll hook the boost control up and go to town on it.

Pretty happy budgie so far.

Will it only be run using E85 Noel? Or is a petrol tune being done too?

Nice result so far! :)

Any ETA on that? Surely it cant take long

Sensor was ordered from south this morning Steve. should get here monday/tuesday.

As soon as Sean has a spare spot he will throw it back on the rollers. I think he's quite keen to see where this goes as well.

Will it only be run using E85 Noel? Or is a petrol tune being done too?

Nice result so far! :)

At this stage its e85 only Mike, However the way it drinks the stuff I may be forced to run a separate 98 unleaded tune. I renamed the car "sugar daddy"

Correct Lith, it is a twin scroll setup. I keep looking up sleeves for hidden cards but at this stage it is showing remarkedly similar boost characteristics to the 35r single entry.

Thats not too surprising then, I'd have expected the 3788R to be a few hundred RPM laggier all things being equal, and a good twin scroll manifold drags things down a few hundred rpm (also tend to help low down/ midrange torque quite a bit too - on top of boost threshold). This is one of the reasons I've considered a twin scroll GT3582R as an upgrade over my single entry GT3076R, I've said before I have a strong suspicion it'd result in a similar drive in terms of building boost but with the ability for more power pretty much everywhere.

It will be interestingt to hear the power results and more importantly, how it drives - could be brutal ;)

If you changed nothing else but went from single scroll to twin scroll (both with good aftermarket manifolds) would the twin scroll make more peak power as well? or does it primarily only assist with low down/midrange power when coming onto boost?

Maybe slight gains up high if you go to a bigger a/r housing than the single entry one, big the real tangible gains are midrange and coming up onto boost - bearing in mind thats for a given boost level, so because it spools faster as well the perceived spool and response will usually be better than what the boost curve would imply... if that makes sense?

Interesting indeed.

On dyno/loaded/4th i take it?

No, that's on the street. Sean had a 20psi boost cut and a 4200rpm cut. I was hitting boost cut at 3900 in 4th. This was pre tune though, the timing will effect how the boost comes on so we'll see if it makes any difference.

Has it got bigger cams? On E85 I'd have thought >500whp on E85 would be a piece of piss anyway... a stock RB30/RB25 head wouldn't really gain much without some head fettling. On the flipside, with some big cams and that turbo - 20psi will justify the turbo but 600+whp would probably be the order of the day haha.

Has it got bigger cams? On E85 I'd have thought >500whp on E85 would be a piece of piss anyway... a stock RB30/RB25 head wouldn't really gain much without some head fettling. On the flipside, with some big cams and that turbo - 20psi will justify the turbo but 600+whp would probably be the order of the day haha.

It does have bigger cams Lith. 10.25 270 degree tomeis. The head has had a lot of attention in a minimalist kind of way. given we made 555 with the 35 on a .82 housing I have no doubt we could dial in pretty much anything up to around 6/650 hp if thats what we were chasing.

Nice achievement so far! Going to be a weapon with mid 500hp Noel. You will be buzzing tires like crazy!

Hoping we might finally have it right Mike. Its been a long hard road achieving the numbers with the 35r but it looks like all that trial and error may have cleared the path for the current setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...