Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Correct Lith, it is a twin scroll setup. I keep looking up sleeves for hidden cards but at this stage it is showing remarkedly similar boost characteristics to the 35r single entry. Its only running gate spring pressure at this stage but until the gate starts open on spring pressure the curve is identical.

Waiting on a wide band sensor to arrive and then we'll hook the boost control up and go to town on it.

Pretty happy budgie so far.

Will it only be run using E85 Noel? Or is a petrol tune being done too?

Nice result so far! :)

Any ETA on that? Surely it cant take long

Sensor was ordered from south this morning Steve. should get here monday/tuesday.

As soon as Sean has a spare spot he will throw it back on the rollers. I think he's quite keen to see where this goes as well.

Will it only be run using E85 Noel? Or is a petrol tune being done too?

Nice result so far! :)

At this stage its e85 only Mike, However the way it drinks the stuff I may be forced to run a separate 98 unleaded tune. I renamed the car "sugar daddy"

Correct Lith, it is a twin scroll setup. I keep looking up sleeves for hidden cards but at this stage it is showing remarkedly similar boost characteristics to the 35r single entry.

Thats not too surprising then, I'd have expected the 3788R to be a few hundred RPM laggier all things being equal, and a good twin scroll manifold drags things down a few hundred rpm (also tend to help low down/ midrange torque quite a bit too - on top of boost threshold). This is one of the reasons I've considered a twin scroll GT3582R as an upgrade over my single entry GT3076R, I've said before I have a strong suspicion it'd result in a similar drive in terms of building boost but with the ability for more power pretty much everywhere.

It will be interestingt to hear the power results and more importantly, how it drives - could be brutal ;)

If you changed nothing else but went from single scroll to twin scroll (both with good aftermarket manifolds) would the twin scroll make more peak power as well? or does it primarily only assist with low down/midrange power when coming onto boost?

Maybe slight gains up high if you go to a bigger a/r housing than the single entry one, big the real tangible gains are midrange and coming up onto boost - bearing in mind thats for a given boost level, so because it spools faster as well the perceived spool and response will usually be better than what the boost curve would imply... if that makes sense?

Interesting indeed.

On dyno/loaded/4th i take it?

No, that's on the street. Sean had a 20psi boost cut and a 4200rpm cut. I was hitting boost cut at 3900 in 4th. This was pre tune though, the timing will effect how the boost comes on so we'll see if it makes any difference.

Has it got bigger cams? On E85 I'd have thought >500whp on E85 would be a piece of piss anyway... a stock RB30/RB25 head wouldn't really gain much without some head fettling. On the flipside, with some big cams and that turbo - 20psi will justify the turbo but 600+whp would probably be the order of the day haha.

Has it got bigger cams? On E85 I'd have thought >500whp on E85 would be a piece of piss anyway... a stock RB30/RB25 head wouldn't really gain much without some head fettling. On the flipside, with some big cams and that turbo - 20psi will justify the turbo but 600+whp would probably be the order of the day haha.

It does have bigger cams Lith. 10.25 270 degree tomeis. The head has had a lot of attention in a minimalist kind of way. given we made 555 with the 35 on a .82 housing I have no doubt we could dial in pretty much anything up to around 6/650 hp if thats what we were chasing.

Nice achievement so far! Going to be a weapon with mid 500hp Noel. You will be buzzing tires like crazy!

Hoping we might finally have it right Mike. Its been a long hard road achieving the numbers with the 35r but it looks like all that trial and error may have cleared the path for the current setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...