Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

+1 Dave. So sick of the "how do I raise my boost for free" shit threads and people wanting mega power on a shoestring budget lately!

How's your setup coming along for power cruise? Give us some good news!!!

Matching turbos and supporting mods to achive a practial/streetable Car has nothing to do with "raising boost for free" or even a budget for that matter, Our cars are money pits No matter which route you choose, Just aslong as you have fun with it

Practical street car talk is over here;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/

Enjoy! :) (Not being rude, but anyone in here with 400kw doesn't really give a shit about practicality)

Getting some stuff done at Speedfab, should be back at JEM by the end of the week to get all bolted up.

Cutting it fine as usual. :rolleyes:

Got to admit, you're consistent haha

Havnt heard of speed fab before-tell us a bit about them?

His name is Rob, PJ put me onto him. Did all of his metal fab stuff.

He made a manifold for a customer at JEM. Top notch stuff, so he made my new one, shroud for thermo, a bit of pipe work.

So yeh, fingers crossed it all comes together in the next week or 2. It will be a car to keep your ears open for at Powercruise :)

Practical street car talk is over here;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/

Enjoy! :) (Not being rude, but anyone in here with 400kw doesn't really give a shit about practicality)

I would just like to have some more time behind the wheel in between breakages. :cheers:

finally cracked the 400 mark

r33 gtr 1995

rb26

engine

honed/bored 0.20# , acid dipped all usual machining done ect

shot peened n1 rods with enlarged big end bearings , crank balanced re nitrided and oversized 0.60 acl race bearings

arias 0.20 over pistons , acl piston rings

tomei oil restrictor

tomei sump bafffle/trap doors

N1 water pump ,

s oil pump

genuine nissan gasket set throughout

cossworth drag series 1.5mm metal head gasket

head reconditioned with porting on exhaust side , hks 264 cams greddy adjustable cam gears

arp head stud kit

driveline

Very rare Autogallery yokohama 1-5 H/D set with double cone syncro's , redline shockproof oil

Os giken pro series twin plate push type clutch

Vspec rear active lsd diff

Turbo/exhaust/intake

Trust greddy t517z turbos with 10cm housings

standard manifolds match ported

hks non turbulent dump pipes

custom twin 3inch y pipes with 100cfm race cats y pipes individualy run to centre of car and then merge into 3.5inch exhaust with highflow muffler and 5 inch tip

apexi hard pipe intake kit with twin z32 afm

electronics/ignition/fuel

apexi power fc , with hand controller

blitz 4 stage electronic boost controller

bosch single 044 mounted intank

injector dynamics 1000cc injectors with convertors t fit 10.5mm standard rail

turbosmart adjustable fuel pressure reg

splitfire coilpacks

hks twin spark DLI amplifier

low compression engine tested 128- 132 across all 6 due to 1.5mm h/g , current power 405kw@wheels on mainline dyno at 23psi fuel pump is probably near its limits but this is plenty for me!!

post-46933-0-16803400-1328176571_thumb.jpg

Good result man! No spark issues with the Twin Spark?

Prob a bit more left in it with a little more boost!

by installing your hks twin spark and splitfires and adding 3psi gained 55 kw atw f*kkn redicolous gains lol , must have been missfiring somethiung fierce before!!

finally cracked the 400 mark

r33 gtr 1995

rb26

engine

honed/bored 0.20# , acid dipped all usual machining done ect

shot peened n1 rods with enlarged big end bearings , crank balanced re nitrided and oversized 0.60 acl race bearings

arias 0.20 over pistons , acl piston rings

tomei oil restrictor

tomei sump bafffle/trap doors

N1 water pump ,

s oil pump

genuine nissan gasket set throughout

cossworth drag series 1.5mm metal head gasket

head reconditioned with porting on exhaust side , hks 264 cams greddy adjustable cam gears

arp head stud kit

driveline

Very rare Autogallery yokohama 1-5 H/D set with double cone syncro's , redline shockproof oil

Os giken pro series twin plate push type clutch

Vspec rear active lsd diff

Turbo/exhaust/intake

Trust greddy t517z turbos with 10cm housings

standard manifolds match ported

hks non turbulent dump pipes

custom twin 3inch y pipes with 100cfm race cats y pipes individualy run to centre of car and then merge into 3.5inch exhaust with highflow muffler and 5 inch tip

apexi hard pipe intake kit with twin z32 afm

electronics/ignition/fuel

apexi power fc , with hand controller

blitz 4 stage electronic boost controller

bosch single 044 mounted intank

injector dynamics 1000cc injectors with convertors t fit 10.5mm standard rail

turbosmart adjustable fuel pressure reg

splitfire coilpacks

hks twin spark DLI amplifier

low compression engine tested 128- 132 across all 6 due to 1.5mm h/g , current power 405kw@wheels on mainline dyno at 23psi fuel pump is probably near its limits but this is plenty for me!!

How do you find the gearbox? Have you driven the Os Giken one to compare it too?

That should be in the title. A disclaimer like "if you're after response, do not click this thread"

LOL ye not like people are running 540ci motors.

Some results in here are pretty damn decent for the power none the less.

Its all about the number nismoid. This thread isnt about response haha

It should be. Why would you not want your cake and eat it too?

Noel makes 24psi by about 3500rpm from memory and he doesn't even have the VCT back on it yet. Correct turbo selection and head setup and you can make 550-600hp and still have good response

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
×
×
  • Create New...