Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bang for buck was why I went with the Z, and for my application its not under 4200 anyway so responce is mute then, it is a little sluggish getting going if you dont give it some revs from idle to 4000 but Ive found that on trackdays it is always on the boil anyway, how is your beastie going mate, got it all bolted up yet ?

Looking forward to seeing it go out in anger.

Nice, I might see it when my boat goes in next week.

And the boat is not track only, it comes out when its raining because my motorbike is made of sugar, I also plod around the Grove (read: bottleshop) in it too, it was fun at the cruise too..

The 3ltr is the bomb though, even with the delay in spool time the extra torque pulls it out of the hole.

-10s are cheap and for the 3ltr the ultimate low combination for the street. Ppl that have built rb26/30s know this

Sorry MarkO I've got that engine, and have had those turbos, and there is no way I'd be calling them "ultimate".

-10s are cheap and for the 3ltr the ultimate low combination for the street. Ppl that have built rb26/30s know this :)

no they aren't the -5 is and we both know the same people who will support my argument

I can't comment on the -5s with 3ltr...I keep thinking they're a bit small as I've yet to see results of this combo. Hurry up stevo and prove me wrong.

I wonder what my combo would have made on higher boost with e85!?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...