Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We only used two sets, both times the car wouldn't start. We had to run them through the injector bath twice before they came up good.

We had the same with a Bosch injector once also. That's why we clean all injectors before use now. They aren't bad injectors. Not a single injector on this planet can be cleaned and flowed, then sit for a month and still have its company guarantee its perfection.

We've never had lean out issues with the pencil type 1600's.

Any time we've had an injector issue with a Bosch injector (ID's included) they were fixed with a clean so we never had to return any.

Yep that's correct ID had a issue with a certin type of after flow matching lube that caused the batch problems. I know FIC and ID pulled the 1600's from there lineup cause of the leaning issue..

Dan, where did you get the ID"s from? plenty of people sell bog standard bosch ones as ID's

The ID's were purchased directly from Injector dynamics both times by my customers. They came with the ID spec and flow sheet also.

There are also no difference between the ID's and the Bosch injectors except for the fact ID apparently dead time test their injectors and Bosch don't.

Bosch are still flow matched and flow the same.

I don't see the point in paying extra for the same product. We have seen the spray pattern on both and cannot tell the difference

Just gasket on with nothing ye? Im sorry i know its a stupid question but its my first time

Yep, the gasket provided is all you need.

And I disagree with Marko, there are stupid questions....but yours was not one of them. I just couldn't resist the temptation to be idiotic

There are stupid Q's OK but it would even stupider to put that engine together then realise wtf I should have asked about that sealer (definitely not taking a dig at u daniel after helping me with that nugget white gtr u inspected for me at no fee last year :))

Anyone in here know of a place to get the push in fittings for RB26 cam covers with a 90 degree outlet?

NOT a straight then add a Speedflow 90 degree bend - that wont fit. Needs to be the same fitting that goes into the cam cover that's got the bend in it

I just want to know a couple things from you 400kw guys i wana know,

What sumps you guys are using if in melb where u got it from size cost and if from out of melb cost of freight

Can the std intake piping and cooler support 400kw ? Coz i wana try keep it for now cant afford it,

Std exhaust manifold port matched to gasket will it flow 400?

Cheers

Can the std intake piping and cooler support 400kw ? Coz i wana try keep it for now cant afford it,

Std exhaust manifold port matched to gasket will it flow 400?

Cheers

Standard intake piping as in the pipes from airbox to turbo's and the 'twin turbo pipe'? If so then yes

Exhaust manifolds are a yes also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...