Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fuel cooler is mounted at front of car . In front of radiator, behind grill. A/c condenser has been removed oil cooler is also mounted in its location. I didnt like the oil cooler mounting in front of front wheel..I'll try track down some pics

Fuel cooler is mounted at front of car . In front of radiator, behind grill. A/c condenser has been removed oil cooler is also mounted in its location. I didnt like the oil cooler mounting in front of front wheel..I'll try track down some pics

Yea I've got my oil cooler in front of my front wheel, I don't think it's very effiencent there

My 83/75 results is a page or 2 back

The fmw has a different wheel design yea

My 32 gtr was rebuilt with the following parts and was run in and tuned by Sean at EFI Performance

Engine:

Rb26 (2.6l)

Cosworth forged pistons (87mm)

Manley conrods

R34 gtr crankshaft ( new from Nissan)

Acl race bearings

Arp rod, head, main bolts

Reimax billet oil pump gear

Tomei 1.5 mm head gasket

Kelford 282 cams

Manley valve springs with ti retainers

Sump baffles

Oil cooler

Balanced and blueprinted

Os giken twin plate button clutch rebuilt by NPC

Machine work done by chilton engineering

Engine assembled by Dan at ERD

Greddy plennum

Greddy 100mm pipe kit

100mm intercooler

Turbonetics billet gtk 1050 turbo with .86 twin scroll rear housing

Turbosmart 60mm wastegate

2.5 inch screamer pipe

6 boost exh manifold hpc coated with egt ports

4 inch dumpipe

3 inch decat pipe

3 inch TItanium cat back exhaust

Magnafuel 750 pro tuner fuel pump ( 2000hp)

Bosch 044 (lift pump)

7 litre surge tank

Fuel cooler

Aeromotive fpr

Bosch 2200 cc injectors

All braided hoses

Splitfire coil packs

Power fc dejetro

Car made 650hp at 26 psi (485kw)

I will post a pic of Dyno chart soon.

The ignition system is at limit at 26 psi

I have just finished installing ls2 truck coils and an ati balancer. Next tune the boost is being increased and rev limit is being increased.

Aiming for 700hp + on 30 psi.

Will post results when it is sorted.

Thanks, no port work on head just reconditioned with valve springs, retainers, shims etc.

Running on Caltex eflex atm. This setup needs to be run on drum E85 to get more out of it. The motor/turbo can quite easily handle 40psi. Not too confident on the consistency of pump ethanol. However, this is still a street car and 650hp should be enough for the std gearbox atm...lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...