Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No that is not normal... What tyres, what width and what suspension do you have?

Without much information my guess would be you have a dead transfer case if you are losing traction in 3rd

Theres also the possibility the ATTESSA hasn't been properly bled meaning it'll be more or less RWD… Just a thought that is. I bled mine up after changing to my old twin plate and it made a world of difference.

If the gearbox has come out at any stage the ATTESSA needs to be bled

The I shift I don't have that on at the moment. My 60' was a 1.795 which is not bad considering it was my second Time at the runs. Can't wait for this box should get better results. You think I should leave the 4.11 with the ppg box getting the clutch sent to Jim berry to get strengthened. Will be stronger then a full Monty clutch

The PPG dog sets or the helical synchro. I've spoken to their sales guy at length. He reckons the dog box is fine, just man up. We have 3-4 guys that will be buying a set at once, just a matter of when.

sime1, swap out the suspension, if the bilstiens and kings are still in it that is, they worked OK on the track but they are rubbish on the strip, way to stiff.

You may need to get the rear springs custom made though, I ended up getting the black springs that I sold with the car made up, standard height but a bit stiffer to stop it squatting and hitting the outside edge of the tyres, that is if you are still running the 32 rims and 255 50 16 M/T's.

It was a quick fix at the time, but I never did get around to getting a drag type suspension set up before I sold it.

I think that different suspension alone will get you into the 10's.

I would get different shock and spring package for the drags, I did a bit of research on this when I had the boat, the rear shocks need to be able to drop but they don't come back up as quick or something, the front need to raise and stay up to help transfer the weight to the rear, the spring rates? I have no idea.

I would ask around at the drags, watch whose cars lift the front and drop the rear and hook up well, then ask them what they are using, from my experience most guys are quite willing to share the knowledge.

Remember that you will need some positive camber wound into the rear due to IRS and the inevitable negative camber that will come when it squats, I ran 0.5 positive for the drags from memory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...