Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys...

heh pardon my ignorance...

im drvin a 95 r33 gts...no turbo...:)

just wondering, occasionally, now that im informed by bam n sum otha ppl i can just pop by the plex on a sunday and do runs if i like, is there nething i shd be aware of?

like driving yr car hard prolonged could lead to this that this that...

an occasional whack to 180 on private roads? can spoil e car?

just wondering...if theres nethin i shd be aware of or shd not be doin till i do anythin to the car

thanks

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by streamer

like driving yr car hard prolonged could lead to this that this that...

not really unless you're doing circuit work....just watch out for the oil and water temps....

but for the occasional road excercises....there shouldn't be much of a problem...just keep your heater on for a few minutes should do fine...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-535748
Share on other sites

These cars are meant to be driven hard.

To me it's like asking if your BMW M3 can be safely* taken up to 250km/h (*mechanically speaking of course).

Skylines are supremely stable at very high speed. The motors are very responsive with the balance to go to the red constantly.

At speed I fear nothing for the car - just the police :)

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-535751
Share on other sites

Originally posted by streamer

< snip >

driving hard? Talk about reading hard. :( That post was frikkin impossible to read.

But from the little I understood, no there should be no permanent damage as the car was designed to be driven hard. The occasional fang won't do damage unless the car's not been maintained well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-536707
Share on other sites

skylines love bring driven hard...

just keep good fresh fluids (engine, gearbox, diff, brakes, radiators), good plugs etc.

And of course, like fatz said, you need to get sump baffles installed if you want to go over 100km/hr.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-537273
Share on other sites

good point actually.. like how much punishment can a skyline take day in day out without it actually snapping? Do they start blowing smoke and things? I've never actually seen a skyline that looks "sick" but i guess they aren't at that age where that would become obvious I spose..

not that i really do that to my car, but just curious :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-537425
Share on other sites

the only answer is "depends", but I regularly take my stocker out on the track and use all of its potential when I'm out there.... never had a problem.

Personally, I think with quality fluids, stock boost and mixtures they can take plenty. Its when you move outside the tolerances that the manufacturer expected that you can have problems.

And don't forget a sump baffle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-537431
Share on other sites

haha just take Gtrken for example .... takes a R32 GTR wth an awfully worn motor .... drags a Mits GTO .... yeah hurts it a little but it keeps solidering on ..... then takes it to JMS drifta-thon .... with clutch n engine worn gives it a good thrashng there .... starts makng weird noses after but it still soliders on

...... theres cars are meant for this over a long period of time .... sure theres going to be slight damage over time but for most part thats why they are called "performance" vehicles!! they are built for speed n an occasional hammerin ..... dont stress .... enjoy!! :D

....... i accept no liability in engine harm that comes from this advice :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-538309
Share on other sites

A baffled sump will stop the oil from collecting at one side of the sump under hard cornering, which means you won't get oil surge. A baffled sump is desirable if you go circuit racing, but not really necessary for drag racing unless you doing 10sec or better:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25187-drving-hard/#findComment-541196
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...