Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does the car run? if so leave it in and run the engine at least once or twice a weak. easier way to make sure things dont seez up. also is ur car driveable? if so may even be an idea to just drive round the block once or twice a week.

I go away with work for months on end(between 4 and 6 months usually) and have been told to replace the engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid and replace the coolant, then put the car on stands without the hand brake on and have a full tank of fuel and clean and wax the car before i go, on return i do a pre start check(oils and fluid), turn over the car with out the ignition wire a couple of times to get some oil in the head then start the car, go for a drive and let it get to operating temp then replace all the oils and fluids again. Was told starting the car every week or so is bad as the oils drain right down and constantly starting the car is worse than not starting at all.

But that's me,LOL.

I go away with work for months on end(between 4 and 6 months usually) and have been told to replace the engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid and replace the coolant, then put the car on stands without the hand brake on and have a full tank of fuel and clean and wax the car before i go, on return i do a pre start check(oils and fluid), turn over the car with out the ignition wire a couple of times to get some oil in the head then start the car, go for a drive and let it get to operating temp then replace all the oils and fluids again. Was told starting the car every week or so is bad as the oils drain right down and constantly starting the car is worse than not starting at all.

But that's me,LOL.

Dude your kidding me right?

A car sitting without movement doesn't destroy itself magically like some of you may think. Full tank of fuel to stop condensation and disconnect the battery. The car can sit there for ages, dont worry about it.

When you go to start it, crank it over a couple of times to build oil pressure before you start it, that's about it.

Dude your kidding me right?

A car sitting without movement doesn't destroy itself magically like some of you may think. Full tank of fuel to stop condensation and disconnect the battery. The car can sit there for ages, dont worry about it.

When you go to start it, crank it over a couple of times to build oil pressure before you start it, that's about it.

AFAIK fuel goes stale, if so then thats not about it :P

Other than that check oil and water to see if they are still ok and at the right levels :cool:

Edited by mitch_SR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...