Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i've used this oil in my past cars and had good experiences with it.

Now i'm about to change the g/b oil in the GT-R, but someone has advised me it's not good to use it. He mentioned that I should use the Getrag oil, didnt even know they make it.

What are ppls thought?

Direct quote from their website:

Redline Lightweight ShockProof®

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

That said, from what i have heard, it is a gb oil that is really only good for old and tired boxes where the synchro's have worn, and adding this oil provides a smoother change. The old "band aid for a bullet wound" type fix.

My advice: Dont use it.

This answer can be found via search. Shockproof should never be used in the Getrag 6 speeds, either should any other GL-4 75W-90 or similar style oil. The Getrag uses ATF believe it or not. I think the synthetic ATFs are ok (Transmax Z) just run a search and you'll find a definitive answer.

  • 8 months later...

160V fluid from Toyota is what you want to use (same getrag 6 speed gearbox in the Supra).

According to this link: http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/en/pages/technical/V160.htm

Castrol Transmax Z is ok as well.

160V fluid from Toyota is what you want to use (same getrag 6 speed gearbox in the Supra).

According to this link: http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/en/pages/technical/V160.htm

Castrol Transmax Z is ok as well.

i have no idea what oil in my box. its work fine, but just make a bit noise.

i did some search. the getrag gearbox is fine to have some mt90 oil or similer oil(like 70w90,70w80 75w85 etc) in it. but not the redline shockproof oil for sure.

is that right information?

Redline will know - call them. I'd be very surprised if they tell you a gear oil is ok in place of ATF.

Direct quote from their website:

Redline Lightweight ShockProof®

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads

<cut cut>

That said, from what i have heard, it is a gb oil that is really only good for old and tired boxes where the synchro's have worn, and adding this oil provides a smoother change. The old "band aid for a bullet wound" type fix.

My advice: Dont use it.

And here's a quote from the Aus website which is under less legal restrictions compared to the USA in terms of oil usage, from http://www.redlineoil.com.au/oil-finder.asp :

Manual Gearbox Nissan 5 spd use 'Lightweight Shockproof', Getrag in R34 use 'Superlight Shockproof'. @ see handbook for Litres

I'm not recommending either way for a Getrag gearbox, just want to disagree for the entire it doesn't work with synchro's argument.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...