Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Woah long time since I started this thread. No i didn't. I dug around on the cars history via forums and it turned out to have been thrashed in every way imaginable with some below average repair jobs...

So I'm still searching quietly. If something comes up it comes up.

I would like to find a supercharged AW11 MR2 though - their certainly cheap enough - get a new pulley to up the boost, sort out the suspension plus their already bloody light strip what little there is of the interior and your off. Hilarious car to drive stock through twisty roads :D

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 6 months later...

Just found thread on cheap builds. I sold my R33 some time ago and ended up with a Toyota's of late

Thought this may help a little.

I have just about finished building a MR2 which I did get a bit carried away with but I kept the budget within reason.

The build has cost $7500 to date not including the car. The car was $7500.

I was going to buy some one elses car but you can easily buy someone elses trouble which is why I built my own. Plus I always wanted to try this journey which I highly recommend.

Allow 300+hrs to build it

200hrs mental prep and research.

I will be registering the car for Production Sports and/or Sports sedans.

The car will be run with irace series which has TV coverage which is advantagous for tax deductions. Also a few other events including reglarity events, supersprints and track days with friends.

One of the first things I will do will be a day with a profession driver trainer who can help with set up and driver education. This will save $000's of me trying to bumble through what is the right set up when I am a complete novice at track work guessing my way through $$$.

Here is the car and a link to the build

http://s707.photobucket.com/albums/ww76/b24nsw/

IMG_4881.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...