Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Finally got time to get up to see Chris and he confirmed my yellow plugs dangling under the seats have nothing to plug into. The anti-submarine rams are completely missing from both front seats.

"Well, there's your problem" :blush:

So my airbag fault is different from most. I reckon there wouldn't be too many others out there that started investigating a flashing airbag warning light and found out the components had been NICKED.

EDIT: deleted name, address (physical & email), phone number & identikit photo of culprit. For legal reasons. :(

  • 1 month later...

I know this is reviving an old thread...but.... I had the airbag light on. Did the key reset and it came back after a couple of days. Took it to the workshop (C-Red in Perth :thumbsup: ) and Mark chucked it on his scanner. No code came up and he reset it properly and it's been good ever since. Mark said there is a known glitch with the V/G/M 35 airbag system- something to do with a passenger side seatbelt switch.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Guys,

My airbag light was flashing and I found the solution on the net and it worked first go on my M35.

Turn the ignition to the "on" position. Watch the airbag light closely(it will be on solid) the split second it goes off(beggining to flash) turn the ignition off, count to 5. Turn back to "on" position and do the same another 2 times.

Next time you turn it to "on" position it will blink really slowly(diagnosing) Then switch off. Next time you turn it on it will be solid and then turn off completely.

hi fellas,

same thing happened to my m35 last night,just tried the above method. It worked..So far so good.Will report back a little later to see if the fix is long term .

Thanks so much for all the advice/ help we pick up on this site.

graham

  • 1 month later...

Try this Stephen... worked for my mates car (although the light just came on again).

Turn the key to the on position and watch the airbag light. It should stay solid for 5-7 secs, and then turn off, and then start to flash.

To reset the light, you must turn the key to on, watch the airbag light stay solid for 5-7 secs and as soon as the airbag light turns off, turn the key to the off position (you have to turn the key to off before the airbag light starts to flash, or you must start over). You need to repeat this 5 times. Try to start the car, and hopefully the light will be reset

Thanks for this I was racking my brain trying to clear the same problem.

The golden question is - will the airbags still work!

and the more pressing question in fine print : is my insurance still valid after I bypassed a safety device. (think about it.)

and the more pressing question in fine print : is my insurance still valid after I bypassed a safety device. (think about it.)

Im not sure if the insurance question is more pressing than the safety one Chris :P

ok after looking into the seats, i dont think the non-electric seats have the rams in them.

i think the plug is just a switch to see if someone is sitting in the seat so the airbag computer knows to deploy any bags in the event of an accident.

i dont want to rip apart my nice RS seats, but it disappears into the bottom cushion

Do these cars have a model that comes without seat bags?

If they do legally you can bypass the seat bags according to the RTA in NSW.

Been there, done that a number of times while i was doing airbags for a living for 5 years.

Of course, the base model has no seat bags or electrics and I haven't seen a ram under mine either although there are plenty of wires. I agree with Duncan, getting the system out of fault so the bags deploy in an accident is much more important to me than how the insurance company will weasel out of their contract.

Of course, the base model has no seat bags or electrics and I haven't seen a ram under mine either although there are plenty of wires. I agree with Duncan, getting the system out of fault so the bags deploy in an accident is much more important to me than how the insurance company will weasel out of their contract.

RS leather optioned seats do not have air bags either... unless the safety option was also ticked by the original purchaser.

RS leather optioned seats do not have air bags either... unless the safety option was also ticked by the original purchaser.

I wish the previous owner of mine (RS with leather) wasn't so safety conscious, then I wouldn't have to go thru all this crap pinch.gif

  • 1 month later...

Hi,

Not sure if this would help - but I had the same annoying problem with my Stagea - got it reset a couple of times and then tried resetting it myself (after reading this forum) with occasional success.

Even called Chris regarding costs for new seats.

Anyhow - took it to Victoria Park Auto Care in Perth and he said something about he cut the yellow plug out from under the seat and bypassed it so it was hardwired (?), said its a common circuit problem with a number of car such as Falcons and BMWs.

It cost us $200 to repair and light had not come back on!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...