Jump to content
SAU Community

Painful Static Electricity Shock

rs73

By rs73,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Has anyone else experiencing static electricity shock when getting off their car?

I get it almost always especially after driving to work in the morning. even when touching the glass (instead of door metal) when getting off the car...

What's the best way to reduce/eliminate this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254082-painful-static-electricity-shock/
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

a search on eBay found a few antistatic strip that is fitted on the bumper and hanging down to touch the ground.

Looks kinda silly.

also found a few antistatic shark fin antenna or short type aerial that can be mounted on the roof or at the gap of the boot lid.

anyone tried any of those devices? do they help or just a gimmick?

The hanging antistatic strip touching the grounds sound logical but I can't see how antistatic antenna can work? discharging the static onto thin air? I thought static needs to be 'grounded'

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
1. Touch and hold any metal part on body/door of car.

Use (1) and take it like a man! lol

How bad is it? My car did it for 3-4months and stopped again, not sure why / how, the best way I found was the touch the inside of the glass or inside of the car, it was *less* of a shock then touching it on the outside.

I've seen anti-static straps but they look ridiculous.

VB- Veteran

VB-

Posted
Posted

its because your not touching anything when you get out of the car. you must be letting go of everything and just spinning sideways on ur arse, then putting your foot on the ground and lifting/stepping up. when u move across your seat like that it builds up alot of static electricity (obviously). rest your hand on a metal part of the car before u lift ur ass out of the seat, and leave it resting on the car till ur out. it will 'earth out' all that static, so to speak

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

tried that, but sometimes when you just forget of that routine then the zap gets bad.

and pretty much anything else, coming out of elevator and touching office's door, looks like an idiot every time hesitating for a second or two after swiping my card, staring at the metal door handle, and then use the back of my hand to test-feel the door handle if there's a zap or not before opening the door.

getting into elevator and leaning on the handrail (metal)

I'm electrified...

Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted

I get them bad. So bad that sometimes it makes me jump a step back.

Its amusing for my wife and the on lookers but dam annoying for me.

Will try the grounding thing, i just never bothered to look it up haha. I just saw the thread so ill give it a go. Cheers

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I always wear cotton most of the time. business shirts.

and leather shoes.

and still get zap

my wife's colleague has a habit of walking around in the office dragging his feet, then walk up behind one of them and held out his finger close to the ear and zap!

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

that's what I thought but the instruction said need to be mounted as far back as possible, that's why people put them somewhere on a metal mount in the rear bumper.

the antistatic antenna also recommended to be at the top of rear windscreen or on the boot lid.

I have yet to find a scientific reason why it needs to be mounted towards the back of the car not middle...

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
1. Touch and hold any metal part on body/door of car.

2. Put your foot on the ground.

3. ???

4. Profit.

We are the UnderGnomes? ;)

Just mount it anywhere. IT will do the same job mounted up the front or middle as it would in the rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • 25debt
      MAJOR FUEL ISSUES 25det neo r32

      By 25debt · Posted

      And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...