Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found a little info on the 300ZX forums but I'm not a member there and they do have 3litre engines.

Some of us gtr owners also run 3litre engines :(

In my personal experience, the ultimate street setup for a 2.6litre are the -5s (hks gtss) and for the 3litre the -10s (hks gtrs) if u want midrange and top end performance without sacrificing either

Some of us gtr owners also run 3litre engines :(

In my personal experience, the ultimate street setup for a 2.6litre are the -5s (hks gtss) and for the 3litre the -10s (hks gtrs) if u want midrange and top end performance without sacrificing either

I'm sure its accidental, but your spreading incorrect information!

-5's are not HKS GTSS, they are HKS 2530 equivalent.

-9 are the HKS GTSS equivalent, which I believe you meant above. Have you run these turbo's? Or did you actually run -5's?

Personally I'm happy with 300 something kilowatts with good response on the RB26 for street/track, I'd also like to do E85 at some point, but I have not found the money to upgrade turbo's and related components yet :)

where does a hks 2510 sit in the equation?

from what i can find and my lack of turbo knowledge i think they rate somewhere between the -5 and -9?????

anyone know?

It's similar to HKS GT-SS (Garrett -9s), 2510 are old technology compared to GT-SS so will be bit laggier than GT-SS.

Never able to run these on mine (sold them due to motivation being lost).

  • 5 weeks later...

May I make the distinction - we are talking about these turbos:

(as listed on garrett website)

The -5 :

GT2860R 707160-5

The -7:

GT2860R 707160-7

The -9:

GT2859R 707160-9

NOTE^ GT28*59*

NOT:

not a GT2860R -9.

GT2860R 739548-9

This is essentially a GT2860RS (you'll note the cartridge numbers are the same).

So when people are referring to -9's, they mean the GT2859R -9, not the GT2860RS-9 disco potato.

Some confusion in this thread with turbos names/numbers/chras.

Good read guys,

I'm wanting to upgrade my R33 GTR turbos, from stock to something with a bit more balls. Happy to do minimal mods to engine (eg. cams, injectors etc), already got power fc.

Anyway not getting the -5's, because had a too big turbo in my r32 gtst previously and HATED waiting for boost to come on, much rather have something more responsive.

Just wanting high 200's for the GTR, nothing to swish, just bit of guts. Which is better -7's or -9's? Can't really see what the differences will be between them? Couldn't be too much. Don't really want to be running stupid high boost- just something safe.

Cheers, Ash

The compressor wheels in the GTSS/AKA GT2859R 707160-9 are slightly smaller in diameter than the GT2860R family .

I've never had a -9s cartridge to measure its compressors tip height but I think you can be sure that HKS had Garrett brew up something that works . They are after all a specific RB26 application unit .

I don't know why more people don't use these -9 turbos in street GTRs , the exact HKS unit (GTSS) from Garrett at a Garrett price . The only thing HKS did with them was add waste gate actuators which is why you can buy these turbos with or without Garrett ones .

IMO the reason why these turbos work so well is that they help a smallish low compression ratio 2570cc six drag a tonne and a half of Skyline around . Boost for torque is important when the engines capacity is marginal for the weight of a car and these 707160-9s I'm told make for more torque everywhere than any OE RB26 turbocharger .

Again IMO if you're serious about having a usable torquey street GTR you have two choices , basically use these turbos or throw an RB30 at it . Deluxe option is probably RB30 + 2 GT2530s , got a V8 that revs then .

Just on those old HKS spec GT2510s , they use the basic Garrett TB25 turbine like S15 BB turbos have but add the same 60.1mm 63 trim compressor that the GT2530s use .

In those days it was considered that using a smaller sized turbine behind a known good compressor was the way to make a turbo more responsive . They did the same with 2540s and 3040s .

The better later thinking is to size the compressor to match the turbines drive characteristics and we now have the GTSS and GTRS which replaced the 2510 and 2540 dinosaurs .

A .

I have the -9s in my R32 gtr with all supporting mods fuel, exhaust,adj cam wheels, pfc, no head work, cooler, split fire for ignition, etc on 18psi i made 362rwkw max out the turbos.

Response is fantastic it might not be as quick as the -7s but all there by 3600rpm and holds hard all the way to 7200rpm. minor lag but mid and top no sacrifice or drop of.

Really for the street i agree these are the ultimate and nothing better when a wrx driver leaps ahead thinking hes got you and your -9s kick in a moment later and all he remembers is my beautiful big red dinner plate rear lights pulling away into the distance.

i had the -7s originally and they responded quickly but ran out of puff to early and thats where i wanted them to pull hard to redline but they drop of leaving a sour taste in your mouth of disappointment, everybody has their opinions i not saying mine is the correct but having had both -9s all the way if i had done some head work the -5s i would consider but these are alot laggier for the street so the -9s will suit light track work better i gather as well.

Hope this helps anyone trying to choose which avenue to go.

cheers,

Dave

I have the -9s in my R32 gtr with all supporting mods fuel, exhaust,adj cam wheels, pfc, no head work, cooler, split fire for ignition, etc on 18psi i made 362rwkw max out the turbos.

Response is fantastic it might not be as quick as the -7s but all there by 3600rpm and holds hard all the way to 7200rpm. minor lag but mid and top no sacrifice or drop of.

Really for the street i agree these are the ultimate and nothing better when a wrx driver leaps ahead thinking hes got you and your -9s kick in a moment later and all he remembers is my beautiful big red dinner plate rear lights pulling away into the distance.

i had the -7s originally and they responded quickly but ran out of puff to early and thats where i wanted them to pull hard to redline but they drop of leaving a sour taste in your mouth of disappointment, everybody has their opinions i not saying mine is the correct but having had both -9s all the way if i had done some head work the -5s i would consider but these are alot laggier for the street so the -9s will suit light track work better i gather as well.

Hope this helps anyone trying to choose which avenue to go.

cheers,

Dave

Dave,

Do you have dyno graph by any chance?

It's quite a power figure from pair of -9s.

Cheers

Grant

Yes i do grant but im hopless at putting up images on this forum if you happy with an iphone pic glady sent it to you quickly send me you number, might i add i also ran quarter mile time of a lazy 11.6 at 123Mph i went there with near bald tyres stupid me but the Mph indicates im making the power for a low 11sec. If i wasnt making decent power i doubt i could run that speed, im no pro an amatuer but thet all say your Mph dictates real power of engine so she must be whats my dyno print out is i guess.

cheers,

Dave

Lookguys i didnt post to brag my figures just my experience of what i got on the rollers now i know different dynos can cheat but but ill dig up my dyno chart and dig up the WSID docket and the Mph is there.

98 ron thats it like i said no pro an amatuer but times and Mph doesnt lie i dont want to get into a big debate alot of guys bulls*** about figures im just a normal bloke relaying what i have seen and done dont mean to offend anyone but if its going to get bitchy ill just keep to myself and keep on enjoying reading the great info on this forum.

cheers,

Dave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...