Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only GTR I have driven is mine. Which previously was stock with computer and cat back. So with out first hand experience it's a little hard to judge what I would like

Go for a drive in different setups that your engine builder has done, see what you like and get him to build it. Best way to do it hands down and don't rely on other people's opinions on drivability and lag...your opinion is the only one that counts. Edited by XGTRX

Your 2.6ltr setup sounds aligned to my liking. I had a 2.6ltr with -5s but I didn't get to keep it long enough to have my tuner remap it...although it felt strong at 347kw on 19psi.

Do u know what cams your engine is running out of curiosity? Any additional porting?

Anyway we are getting into the old forum fight of the definition of laggy setup. Each to their own on this one. I think the best advice is experiencing different setups to see what your happy with. Me personally love the built, cammed, -5 RB26 Setup. Best of both worlds and as my engine builder said, 'the 26s sweet spot'. I drive it daily and love that it's off boost in traffic and starts coming on at a higher rev range. I would hate boost coming on too early. BUT when I want to drive the car then I hold it between 4 and 7-8 and she is a rocket and no lag when it matters. My other car is a HSV LS2 with old school lumpiness and a hi stall. Again in traffic she purrs under stall with low torque to the wheels but when asked to she will flash to 4k and all hell will break loose. Best of both world with both Setups in my opinion.

Sorry mate can't help you much with the specs. All I know is that they were match ported to the plenum and exhaust manifold, and the engine builder modifies the head someway. The cams he uses he said is his own grind. Sorry mate. All I did was experience a few different setups and then said build me that one... which he did.

Wow

easy to criticise is in it mate - on the other hand no one has come with any / provided me with any real evidence to convince me otherwise i.e.back to back testing to determine if this is accurate or just a myth.

Edited by Ants

Hey mate I don't think it's a criticism it just against all the theory.

And it's not a myth it gets put into practice everyday.

still no evidence - and I'm going stop here with this debate because this thread is not designed for this type of discussion.

As an extension to wanting to get exhaust gases out as fast as possible, are there proven advantages around tuned length front pipes?

I often use the Gibson gtr as a benchmark hence did this car run straight front pipes or tuned length?

3 inch un-tuned side pipes.

Get it out as fast as possible.

Sorry I don't have any pics of the exhaust on the GIO car, I only took engine bay shots when I was working on it... Next time, just for you guys. ;)

3 inch un-tuned side pipes.

Get it out as fast as possible.

Would not having the gasses merging back into a single pipe have any effect on this like 98% of low mount GTR's out there are?

In regards to the "tuned length" debate, wouldn't the gas pulses be all messed up after going through the turbine wheel?

Would not having the gasses merging back into a single pipe have any effect on this like 98% of low mount GTR's out there are?

In regards to the "tuned length" debate, wouldn't the gas pulses be all messed up after going through the turbine wheel?

Pulses merging at a funnel and accelerating can promote a low pressure hole for the next pulse, but as Piggaz said, the turbine will chop the pulses to hell and the housing will smooth the pulses out due to it's restriction imo.

3 inch un-tuned side pipes.

 

Get it out as fast as possible.

Would not having the gasses merging back into a single pipe have any effect on this like 98% of low mount GTR's out there are?

In regards to the "tuned length" debate, wouldn't the gas pulses be all messed up after going through the turbine wheel?

If you mean scavenging the exhaust pulse, that only really is noticeable in small NA engines for the average guy. that's why if you speak to any RB engine builder he will recommend a pipe diameter for a certain power/torque/displacement/turbo setup to get the gasses out as quickly as possible.

easy to criticise is in it mate - on the other hand no one has come with any / provided me with any real evidence to convince me otherwise i.e.back to back testing to determine if this is accurate or just a myth.

Instead of waiting for someone probably best you do some reading to figure it out like most others have or talk to someone who really knows what they are talking about.

It is even easier to sit back and demand someone provide evidence (for what is a fact) to satisfy someones skepticism.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got a 2011 J50 that I imported six years ago. The unmodified factory AV system date and time has always been correct ( Japanese timezone of course ) up until last month. About two weeks ago, at engine start, the system wished me a happy new year ( in Japanese of course ). I can't think of anything that would make the system think that the date had changed, unless the GPS component has failed/reset somehow ? I checked the GPS reception in the system settings, and it can still see the satellites. Has any other J50 owner had this happen ?  It's no biggie, just annoying that it tells me the wrong date anytime I start the engine. 😅
    • Love following your adventures on IG, hopefully if you're still around in Japan when we visit again wouldn't mind going for a few beers with you (that's if you're keen on hearing how I hate Nissans).
    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
×
×
  • Create New...