Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

?? NISMO - Nissan Motor Sport OEM supplier, so direct fit for R34GT-T.

I'm not trying to pedal anything, just saying that that bloke made a mistake when he said that R34 NISMO injectors were 440cc that's all.

I'm not trying jam them down anyones throat, just trying to help out with some options. :)

Fair call, I'm just trying to figure out if there is a larger equivalent that came factory fitted to another engine. I can't justify near on $1k for an extra 100cc's for my daily :)

Deutschworks?

Does anyone know how big 350Z injectors are? being a 3.5L engine I'm hopinh they're bigger than 370cc..

From memory they're about 300cc....not big at all, as some zed people are using the R34 Blue 370's as upgrades.

I've been more than happy with the deatschwerks injectors, I've got the obsolete 550's the newer 600's replaced them on their site last year, they're 100% drop-ins

I remember asking the question about the XR6T injectors a while back, never actually found out though :)

480cc'S can go more then 242 kws cant they

from memory i pulled 215 from stocko ones would 100cc really be only 30kws more

(oh mines currently at 244Kws (have run 248Kws) with nismos and I could have sworn they were not maxing out yet )

Well my stag is making nearly 240awkw on stockers, they were pretty much maxed at ~260awkw and there was still a few psi left in the turbo which is why I'm looking for something a little bit larger :)

Edited by bubba

ok, blitz made good ones but discontinued, so pretty much forget about those. One wrecker i think in SA has some second hand ones but for about $1200

Nismo are the ONLY drop in ones, 4 hole spray pattern, $1200-$1300 delivered, stupidly expensive and rare as hens teeth to find second hand, trust me, i was looking for a while until a set turned up on ebay. And what do you know, someone on SAU is selling a set :banana:

Sard aren't straight drop in like the Nismo's, and frankly, don't have that brilliant a rep compared to the Nismo's.

Other options then become...

GTR injectors (need fuel rail and possibly resistor packs)

HKS fuel rail which gives you more options

Hi flows - done here locally or done via deutchworks, some people love them, some people hate them. RC Engineering in the states could probably also rustle up some hi-flows.

Then, i was going to go with ANOTHER option until i found the Nismo's. A guy in Melbourne was advertising converting side feed to top feed, using these billet aluminium bungs or something. I asked if he could go the OTHER way, top feed to side feed. Because if us NEO'ers went to side feed we'd have a ZILLION options. He doesn't see why you couldn't go top to side, but i never followed through with it cos i found the Nismo's.

I know there's no OEM info, but that's pretty much what i found out with after market options for the NEO, and yes it's VERY limited if you don't want hi-flows or get fiddly with new fuel rails.

I reckon someone should give the top-side feed conversion a shot, cos surely then there would be a lot more options available.

I had actually toyed with the idea of putting the R33 inlet runners on the Neo head and just using R33 side feeds on the stock rail....but I never got around to confirming the stud patterns matched up, anyone care to check it out?

Yeah thats the one, i got them ones highflowed to 555cc.

You had 350Z injectors hiflowed?

Also, anyone know if a 26 fuel rail will bolt up to the intake manifold? or could be made to bolt up? a fuel rail is just a fuel rail afterall.. and being able to use GTR injectors means I could then also use hand-me-downs from my 30!

Edited by bubba
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey ppl's I'm still working on this little project. just waiting on a bit of cashola to come through.

can any 1 confirm if Neo Rb25 heads have the same injector spacing and mounting positions as a non NEO RB25 head?

also do R33's run the same style stock FPR. as i want to retain the stock FPR?

regards

Chris

you are a dingis . have you not read anything about this sublect at all ?

You sir are a Dingis for using the word Dingis. LOL

I am very confused at why u think this is such a stupid non thought out project.

Was it the part where I'm going to use cheap common injectors or the part were i asked if Neo and non Neo's had the same spacing between injectors.

Whether they be top feed or side feed is irrelevant.

Please explain where I have gone very very wrong?

regards

Chris

Edited by urtwhistle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks heaps Duncan and GTSBoy. I'll get my old man to sit in the driver's seat and turn it on and off while I test with the meter. Or maybe other way round, depending on whether he remembers where his glasses got to
    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
×
×
  • Create New...