Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok here we go. Today it was nice so I decided to work on my car.

1st I wanted to diagnose why my horn wasnt working. Ends up being that the relay is bad.

2nd I wanted to bondo my fenders. Thought that I didnt have any hardner so I skipped that task(later found the hardner)

3rd Heat shrink the power wire that enters the engine bay and joins together with the upper and lower engine harness.

4th relocated my s-afc with the extended ash tray thing that I found at the junk yard.

So after all was done I decided to crank her up. Noticed that the throttle and afm wasnt reading anything. Both read 0. So I started to jiggle a few wired and nothing.

went over to the throttle body and unpluged it and the car dies. Normally the revs increase a lil bit but not cut off. Then I went over to the maf and unpluged it. Nothing happened. Now during this whole thing I noticed a lil smoke coming out the tail pipe(just a little bit) So I placed a rag over the maf sensor and nothing changed. I know there is something wrong here but then again why is the maf and throttle not reading on the safc???

When I peg the throttle the engine does like a delayed 2 step and the turbo builds boost. I guess somehow the timing is retarding causing this effect.

Does anyone have any ideas?? I drove the car for the past 3-4 months with no problems. I mean everything I did this afternoon was minor stuff. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Mods:

-1989 240sx

-rb25det

-safc

-boost controller 12psi

-3 inch exhaust with cat delete

-freddy intake manifold

-q45 throttle body

-fmic with RFL bov

-aftermarket radiator with slim fans (2 fans)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255344-worked-on-my-car-today/
Share on other sites

ok here we go. Today it was nice so I decided to work on my car.

1st I wanted to diagnose why my horn wasnt working. Ends up being that the relay is bad.

2nd I wanted to bondo my fenders. Thought that I didnt have any hardner so I skipped that task(later found the hardner)

3rd Heat shrink the power wire that enters the engine bay and joins together with the upper and lower engine harness.

4th relocated my s-afc with the extended ash tray thing that I found at the junk yard.

So after all was done I decided to crank her up. Noticed that the throttle and afm wasnt reading anything. Both read 0. So I started to jiggle a few wired and nothing.

went over to the throttle body and unpluged it and the car dies. Normally the revs increase a lil bit but not cut off. Then I went over to the maf and unpluged it. Nothing happened. Now during this whole thing I noticed a lil smoke coming out the tail pipe(just a little bit) So I placed a rag over the maf sensor and nothing changed. I know there is something wrong here but then again why is the maf and throttle not reading on the safc???

When I peg the throttle the engine does like a delayed 2 step and the turbo builds boost. I guess somehow the timing is retarding causing this effect.

Does anyone have any ideas?? I drove the car for the past 3-4 months with no problems. I mean everything I did this afternoon was minor stuff. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Mods:

-1989 240sx

-rb25det

-safc

-boost controller 12psi

-3 inch exhaust with cat delete

-freddy intake manifold

-q45 throttle body

-fmic with RFL bov

-aftermarket radiator with slim fans (2 fans)

What about limp mode?? I noticed anouther cat on NICOclub had the same issue. Never told what it was or if he fixed it but it is the doing the exact thing. Would this happen if im throwing a code?? Im sure that I wired the check engine light into the cluster but not really sure how to check codes.

It will have something to do with the AFM wire that you have to use for the SAFC. Probably a dry solder join or it's come loose.

EDIT: Or you changed the settings on the SAFC accidentally where you have to program what type of AFM you are using.

Edited by PM-R33
What about limp mode?? I noticed anouther cat on NICOclub had the same issue. Never told what it was or if he fixed it but it is the doing the exact thing. Would this happen if im throwing a code?? Im sure that I wired the check engine light into the cluster but not really sure how to check codes.

Nah. All my settings on the safc where the same after reconnecting the battry. The power wire,blk and brn wires broke off but I soldered those back. Everything is still the same.

I pulled code 12(MAf) once. Could not get it to pop up again.

I als code code 55. I read here

http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/showthread.php?t=26965

that this means all ok. When I get home today I guess ill check over all wiring with the maf,tb, and safc

found the problem....

comes to find out that when I went to relocate my safc that I pulled just a lil to hard. At the end of the wires is a plug. Well the plug goes inside the safc and plugs into some computer board inside the afc. I had to seperate it in order to plug it back in. Plus my plugs where fouled out from the none maf voltage. cleaned plugs and reinstalled. All good.

Oh yeah. I noticed that everyone says that the rb25's run rich. Well I have huge throttle body and freddy intake so I subtracted 2% from 5500 rpms to 7 grand. She pulled like a champ

found the problem....

comes to find out that when I went to relocate my safc that I pulled just a lil to hard. At the end of the wires is a plug. Well the plug goes inside the safc and plugs into some computer board inside the afc. I had to seperate it in order to plug it back in. Plus my plugs where fouled out from the none maf voltage. cleaned plugs and reinstalled. All good.

Oh yeah. I noticed that everyone says that the rb25's run rich. Well I have huge throttle body and freddy intake so I subtracted 2% from 5500 rpms to 7 grand. She pulled like a champ

And you pulled the 2% without putting a wide band on it? f**king smart...

Get it on a dyno NOW and check the AFRs.

Not "every" RB25 runs rich. Some have minor issues and make them run lean, although they seem to run perfect. Just guess working is bad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...