Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

just got my rb25 going, it was a stagea motor and ive put a 2wd sump on,

so i noticed that the rb25 dip stick is shorter than rb20? is this because of the sump for the awd system is smaller, so thats why you have a shorter stick to make up the the loss of oil?

reason i ask is because when i first start my car oil pressure goes up to 5-6kg/2 (hope thats the right measure) but when its fully warm and idling at 750-800 rpm it sits on 2kg, it may only be going up to 6 because its a pretty thick oil and the fact that its going through a oil cooler and relocate kit?

oil im using is penrite Sinthetic 5, 5-50w or 60w can remeber what its called, on the website they reccomend using a semi sinthetic HPR10 or HPR5?

should i not worry about the size of dipstick and leave oil at the hieght according to the stick?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255629-rb25det-dipstick/
Share on other sites

Oil level in the sump and oil pessure are totally unrelated (until you don't have enough oil in the sump to pump it around!) The oil pressure is a function of the oil itself.

A 50 or 60 grade oil is too "heavy" for a RB25, you should be using a 30 or 40, ie 0-30 / 5-30 / 5-40 / 10-40.

duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

tru well i was just checking, i think ive put it 4.5L so yeah, i think it should be fine, the only reason about oil pressure and amount you put in, is the fact that i used to work at subaru and i remember an guy doing a home service on his wrx, he over filled the oil a shitload and it lost comp in one piston because of it,

so i think it would be fine,

as for oil, use a 5-40 oil? royal purple or something,

Cheers JV

my rb25 takes 4.5L of oil, that takes it to the full line, would at least start with that much,

as for oil im using a valvoline 5w-30 dura blend, maybe gone through 6-7 oil changes using

it and never had a prob

duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

Thats too much pressure, you sure you got it right? 2 is OK at idle, 3.5 to 4 at cruise and 4+ above say 3000rpm.

Thankyou :)

With my N1 pump, no restrictors and 10W50 oil I see (when warm) 10-20psi at idle depending on oil temp and an extra 20psi for every 1000rpm (so 30-40psi @ 2000rpm, 50-60psi @ 3000rpm, 70-80psi @ 4000rpm and anything over that is pretty much 100psi).

See Bubba it wasn't hard to drag you into the 21st Century.......was it!!! Only been metric since 1975!!! lol

So you have 1 to 1.5 at idle, 2 to 3 at 2000rpm, 3.5 to 4.2 at 3000rpm and then ever onwards and upwards, thats pretty much what I have [and said]. So we either have two engines about to let go, or its normal.........I vote normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...