Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I ALWAYS keep at least 5k in my piggy bank

Just in case something goes wrong. Nothing worse than hearing stories of skylines off the road for months on end while the owner is saving up for a new engine.

O yeah and be prepared to be harrassed by the cops.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most lines are pushing 100,000km+ so expect to have standard problems as with any old car. The main problem I've seen is coilpacks which are only about $600 to replace for some aftermarket ones

Or $10 worth of high temp silastic. Does the job too.

Well considering the stock GTT turbo is rated at 12.5psi MAX I'd say you either have a highflowed turbo or a non stock turbo or a BLOWN turbo and you don't even know it ;-) I'm yet to hear of anyone running more than 12psi on a stock gtt (non-hiflowed) for more than a little while without blowing it.

rated is not fact... same as rated fuel useage :D My bro also has a GTT doing the same thing and neither turbo is hi-flowed :P

if you buy one 'dont boost it up' cause they last longer like Jax said

i had no problems until some nub tuner boosted mine up, pretty much died in a month

That's pretty narrow minded. "Boosting" your skyline will not kill it.

Well considering the stock GTT turbo is rated at 12.5psi MAX I'd say you either have a highflowed turbo or a non stock turbo or a BLOWN turbo and you don't even know it ;-) I'm yet to hear of anyone running more than 12psi on a stock gtt (non-hiflowed) for more than a little while without blowing it.

Please do some research. Stock turbos can handle 14psi easily with the use of a FMIC. How much power-gain you get between 12.5psi and 14psi boost is somewhat the deciding factor. (Why run 14psi for 10 extra HP?)

Generally yes they are reliable....BUT some are getting a bit old now (10+ yrs) and you will encounter typical 'old car' issues. Things made of rubber such as coolant hoses and oil seals will start to fail, radiators and heater cores will start to leak, chassis will start making noises/creak.

Edited by ricsvtr

hey i thought id add my 2 cents :D

ive had my skyline (33 NA) since april 07,

never had any trouble with it only thing is that i had to replace the timing belt which only ended up costing $500

and i get just under 400kms on a full tank :banana:

yay go skylines :thumbsup:

:rolleyes:

might as well throw in my opinion as well, my R33 s1 is 15 years old (1994) now and havnt had any major or minor mechanical problems... however has only done 102,000k's ive had it for a year now an done a fair few drags and drifts, only a minor service's at the moment due to get a major 100,000 service so itl be in the upcoming week or so. its been mechanically sound however in saying that the only mod ive done is 3"cat back exhaust. i got it from a dealer and was tempted with a 3 year warranty so im perrty happy ^.^ but otherwise pretty much stock and from my point of view pretty reliable for a pretty old car and its in great nick, practically immac some things do go though ive experianced the actuator inside the air conditioning unit playing up, havn't bothered to fix it yet, will do soon but its no cause for concern, just annoying to hear a click click when u first start the car. im pretty heavy on the pedal i only get 400k's to a tank mind you its a rb25det. though when i do drive normally i can get anywhere from 400-500 to a tank 500k's if im driving really easy.... but thats pretty rare hahaha... i generally go on cruises least once a month and have at least a drag with someone at least every 1-2 weeks so you can get a rough idea how i drive my car i dont thrash the living bajeebus out of it though but i do put the car to good use... make it do what its made to do ^.^ a good car and can take a fair bit of punishment from my point of view then again i dont red line it, most times when its dragged rpm is at 6rpm i wont go higher, otherwise normal driving its at 2.5rpm i dont know about the other ppl here but for me my car has been great and in my opinion exceptionally reliable compared to other cars out there, especially for its year.

Edited by Sneakyazn
.....done a fair few drags and drifts, ...... im pretty heavy on the pedal ..... when i do drive normally i can get anywhere from 400-500 to a tank 500k's if im driving really easy.... but thats pretty rare hahaha... i generally go on cruises least once a month and have at least a drag with someone at least every 1-2 weeks so you can get a rough idea how i drive my car ...... i do put the car to good use... make it do what its made to do ^.^ , most times when its dragged rpm is at 6rpm i wont go higher

Drag racing someone every 1-2 weeks?

Unless you are doing that at Kwinanna , we really don't want to know. :rolleyes:

rated is not fact... same as rated fuel useage :thumbsup: My bro also has a GTT doing the same thing and neither turbo is hi-flowed :rolleyes:

is it a series 2 by any chance? I think s2 r34s might have an aluminium exhaust wheel or whatever its called where as all the earlier ones are plastic which is why they can't handle more than 12 for long periods..

Actually you are retard and shouldn't be replying if you have nothing useful to add :D Read post #20

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1527454

Edited by Delta Force
is it a series 2 by any chance? I think s2 r34s might have an aluminium exhaust wheel or whatever its called where as all the earlier ones are plastic which is why they can't handle more than 12 for long periods..

I will have to check on the series(it is a 99 so i figure series 1 off a guess)... But from experience it is not so much the boost that will kill a turbo as it will only get so much(the limit) it is more heat that has an issue, things like oil temp, coolant temp and exhaust temp etc...(mine spits flames it gets that hot sometimes :))... i have it set to 14psi for everyday using a SBC-id so no spikes :D and when on a cruise i only bump it back to 13.5 psi unless my oil starts to get above 110 celcius then i will bump it back further, but i have only ever once got it that hot on a hot day with 4500Km oil. your more then welcome to check it out on the next cruise if you like :)

I will have to check on the series(it is a 99 so i figure series 1 off a guess)... But from experience it is not so much the boost that will kill a turbo as it will only get so much(the limit) it is more heat that has an issue, things like oil temp, coolant temp and exhaust temp etc...(mine spits flames it gets that hot sometimes :))... i have it set to 14psi for everyday using a SBC-id so no spikes :D and when on a cruise i only bump it back to 13.5 psi unless my oil starts to get above 110 celcius then i will bump it back further, but i have only ever once got it that hot on a hot day with 4500Km oil. your more then welcome to check it out on the next cruise if you like :)

If your turbo is set to 14psi with 'no spikes' you will eventually destroy it. The ceramic exhaust wheel will be destroyed.

This is a fact so well proven in the experience of these forums that you have only a matter of time before you post a thread about what turbo you should buy next. The boost 'will' kill this turbo and if you are unlucky the ceramic particles may also hurt the motor by getting back through the exhaust manifold into it.

The heat (due to being outside the compressors efficiency) and shaft speed required to produce the 14psi or so of the Turbo are the biggest factors in killing them.

is it a series 2 by any chance? I think s2 r34s might have an aluminium exhaust wheel or whatever its called where as all the earlier ones are plastic which is why they can't handle more than 12 for long periods..

The plastic referred to is on the compressor wheel, not the exhaust. AFAIK pretty much all of the factory skyline turbos have ceramic exhaust wheels (except N1's?), it is these that don't like excessive heat and can fall apart. I have also heard several stories of the nylon compressor wheel delaminating.

If your turbo is set to 14psi with 'no spikes' you will eventually destroy it. The ceramic exhaust wheel will be destroyed.

This is a fact so well proven in the experience of these forums that you have only a matter of time before you post a thread about what turbo you should buy next. The boost 'will' kill this turbo and if you are unlucky the ceramic particles may also hurt the motor by getting back through the exhaust manifold into it.

The heat (due to being outside the compressors efficiency) and shaft speed required to produce the 14psi or so of the Turbo are the biggest factors in killing them.

Heat is in many aspects you have coolant lines to help keep the turbo cool and like i said i have seen and own one and have never seen one break-up how you speak, but we all maintain our cars perfectly not using $10 selastic to fix coolant pipes as you suggested above... i tend to find the people that blow theirs is either poor maintanence and bad driving or track use with excesive heat for long periods of time. One of the best ways to move heat from the turbo is a nice open dump pipe as the 4" i have to get it down to the exhaust...

As everyone has said a poorly looked after car will fall apart a immaculate one will always last longer... Plus the tuning shop i went/go to has no problem doing this as it was their advise who tunned my apexi after i took the IMPUL ecu out which was also running 14psi.

Heat is in many aspects you have coolant lines to help keep the turbo cool and like i said i have seen and own one and have never seen one break-up how you speak, but we all maintain our cars perfectly not using $10 selastic to fix coolant pipes as you suggested above... i tend to find the people that blow theirs is either poor maintanence and bad driving or track use with excesive heat for long periods of time. One of the best ways to move heat from the turbo is a nice open dump pipe as the 4" i have to get it down to the exhaust...

As everyone has said a poorly looked after car will fall apart a immaculate one will always last longer... Plus the tuning shop i went/go to has no problem doing this as it was their advise who tunned my apexi after i took the IMPUL ecu out which was also running 14psi.

You didn't read well in this case.

Reffering to $10 silastic for 'coil packs', not coolant hose.

You have seen and owned a turbo running at 14psi that didn't break? Well I have known a good 30+ or more that have (been on this forum since 2002 and before then on SDU). The worst part is it is coupled with blokes like yourself who have gotten bad advice on what is a reliable level on these turbos.

Take your tuning shop advice as gospel if you like. It's your turbo but, I would like to help you out if I can by pointing out the utter shite info you have been given and hopefully help save you from some pain. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...