New Turbo = Car Runs Like Crap

[gL3nJaMiN88]

Bought a Garret GT3071r and got it installed by Hills Motorsport , Castle Hill. After the car being there for around 2 days to fit the turbo and lines with a custom dump pipe made up it all went together ok and started fine . I got them to give it a tune and he said something about its bogging down hard under load whenever it wants to go near 13+ Psi . Now i had a VG30 that i used to pump around 14+ into and it drove with no drama pulled around 220RWKW. Now this turbo it runs like complete shit! when it boosts up it pulls hard then around 12 - 13psi it makes like a Popping/Gurgle sound and the car feels like ur slamming the brakes on . I drove it low throttle and then punched it around 6000rpm to 7000rpm and it didnt do the gurgle thing. Do you think he has done a lame ass tune or is there another problem? I replaced my Spark Plugs in Nov and Coil packs were rapped in insulation tape .

Mods:

S2 RB25DET

GCG Garret GT30/71R with AR.82 Housing

Acuator set at 1 BAR

Walbro Fuel Pump

SARD FPR set at idle 40Psi

Apexi SAFC Neo Pro Mode

3" Turbo Back Exhaust

[Samon]

when it boosts up it pulls hard then around 12 - 13psi it makes like a Popping/Gurgle sound and the car feels like ur slamming the brakes on

R+R?

[R31Nismoid]

Get a decent ECU.

[tridentt150v]

ecu and Z32, no fmic either, its only half the job

[gL3nJaMiN88]

Actually i've got a Blitz 600x300x76mm Intercooler and my AFM doesnt look normal how can i tell its got Z32 or not? i dont need an ECU it run fine on 14Psi on old turbo thats what im tryin to say

[Samon]

Actually i've got a Blitz 600x300x76mm Intercooler and my AFM doesnt look normal how can i tell its got Z32 or not? i dont need an ECU it run fine on 14Psi on old turbo thats what im tryin to say

I was under the impression that the stock ECU would hit R+R at around 12psi... which makes perfect sense!

[gL3nJaMiN88]

there is nothing to prove it does because i ran close to 15psi on VG30 and it hit 220rwkw and AFR was fine and car drove like new

[Tangles]

14psi on a vg30 and 14psi on a gt3071r are 2 very different things

different turbos = different air flow rates regardless of the same boost pressure

IMHO -

get a proper fpr and a proper fuel pump.

Walbro is shit, go for Bosch 040 minimum or Bosch 044

also get a $160 Nismo adj.fuel pressure regulator and get away from the sard rising-rate regulator; wrong kind IMO for this application.

make sure you have a Z32 afm....

insulating the coilpacks isnt good enough - selleys industrial strength #401 high-temp silicone sealant all-round as a minimum, to stop wasted spark.

then tune the SAFC properly again, go elsewhere to a reputable tuner if you need to, but have a big tuning session done,

with the fuel being reliable from the Bosch/Nismo combo..... tune tune tune around your reported R&R and you'll be better, all better

Id recommend some more ECU mods, such as a remap.

[R31Nismoid]

Actually i've got a Blitz 600x300x76mm Intercooler and my AFM doesnt look normal how can i tell its got Z32 or not? i dont need an ECU it run fine on 14Psi on old turbo thats what im tryin to say

VG 30 say, flows 30lb/min of air @ 14psi

The GT3071 say, flows 50lb/min of air @ 12psi

Hence the ECU is having a spastic even with the SAFC on there.

Turbos of different sizes, flow different amounts of air @ any given PSI

Get a decent ECU as i said, and a tune.

[nfi]

All the power is in the ignition map which the safc can't do... This is in addition to your stock ecu having a hissy fit because its not running/responding the way its supposed to.

The car will be MUCH nicer to drive with a proper ECU and you won't have all these dumb issues.

Make sure you go to a proper tuner as well.

[PM-R33]

Decent aftermarket turbo = Decent aftermarket ecu

Don't waste your time trying to get the SAFC to run it, it's not going to run nice, i learnt that the hard way trying to get my car running on a SAFC before the microtech.

IMO SAFC's are good for the stock turbo, or a slight upgrade such as a highflow. On a 3071R your kidding yourself thinking the SAFC will run it fine.

Edited February 13, 2009 by PM-R33

[QUICKY]

i think everyone is missing one important point. shouldnt Hills Motorsport (while "tuning" it) have picked up if the afm was maxing out? or if it was hitting R&R and rectified the problem? if i show u the dyno sheet for the tune they did 4 me (charged me $600 mind u) ul piss yourself laughing. they tuned it via the hand controller and my dyno graph was bout as smooth as bart simpsons hair.

[R31Nismoid]

Erm... How do you rectify R&R if there is no ECU to tune??????????????????????

You cant!

The first post clearly said they have informed the owner of the bogging down issue, and this is most likely due to the stock ECU... something they can do nothing about.

This is the problem when people take cars to be tuned, the tuner often has to deal with half baked setups, does the best they can, and then people try to hammer them afterwards.

Just because you apparently have some issue, doesnt mean you need to throw basic logic out the window in this thread.

And nothing wrong with tuning via the H/C... you'll find most experienced tuners can do it easily

[dano4127]

your pretty much trying to bone a chick without a stiffy.

Get a popper ECU or at least a Remap and giver her the big O she deserves

[daxter]

gL3nJaMiN88 - I had similar problems, The SAFC can't hack it once you put on a big turbo and turn the boost up. I went with a Link G4 ecu running MAP sensor, car runs perfect now.

Edited February 13, 2009 by daxter

[andymoocow]

Dan, mate that was dead-set hilarious!!!!! Have not heard that one in years, top stuff, keep 'em coming.

Hearing stories like this poor chap, makes me so glad i bought a PFC so early on in the MOD process. Hope it all works out in the end!

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

your pretty much trying to bone a chick without a stiffy.

Get a popper ECU or at least a Remap and giver her the big O she deserves

so you want this guy to tune his car?

srsly tho... you NEED an ecu...

safc can only bend the a/f ratio to trick the ecu into thinking its running differently.

if you were to combine it with a SITC then you would have a bit more of a hope, but by the time you f**k around with that it'll cost the same anyway...

dirtgarage has a PFC for $1500... or at least he did the other day... sell your safc and buy it

[dano4127]

lol go roy!

Sell you my Power FC Pro + Z32 AFM + Tomei Plug for $1750

[Ultimategtr]

As soon as i read the threads title, i knew it had something to do with R&R.

The sensible idea would be to run a VERY low boost - around 5-7psi on your setup and save up for a power FC. You dont want to be running with RNR all the time - Think of what all the bore washing would do to your rings and your oil.

Good luck!

[gL3nJaMiN88]

well i spoke to hills they said it was something to do with the spark so i tried my mates coil packs and got new plugs and does the exact same thing!

What annoys me the most is everyone said it was a direct bolt on package and i thought shit it should drive alright and dont have to worry bout the turbo shitting itself! . But i have had nothing but drama!..

First i had to get old turbo removed and new one fitted , They took all day to remove my old one and put new lines in and fit the turbo. I thought everyone was done and away i go , but then no they didnt heat wrap things so i removed and refitted everything with wrap. They told me my old heat sheilds would not fit but i managed to fit them yesterday no drama just bit of playing around .

Took the car back to get it tuned thinkin it would fix it but still came back weird but better then before , thats when they said it was my plugs , hence why i did the plug/coil as mentioned before .

It still drives like shit as soon as it wants to go above 10psi , It never did it beofre but it must be new turbo characteristics! . . I've wasted over $3500 on new turbo plus fitting/Tune and it runs worse then it did on Old turbo

I think im ready to throw it all in and sell everything and go back to stock R33 ..