Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my motor blew up the other day ive never been so cut in my life....now im just wondering what is the best option for me

i have a r32 gtr

shood i

find a standard rb26 motor and replace it

full rebuild

rb30 bottom end conversion

can anone help me and give me some idea of how much any of these actually cost and how reliable it would be and wat is the best option....im abit iffy on buying another old r32 motor as i didnt abuse this one and it still blew up

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257109-so-my-motor-blew-up/
Share on other sites

:D Even looked after engines can go, remember it is over 15 years old too. The rest of my engine was immaculate when it let go, except for what happened to 1 piston... When it was pulled apart everything else was fine

my motor blew up the other day ive never been so cut in my life....now im just wondering what is the best option for me

i have a r32 gtr

shood i

find a standard rb26 motor and replace it ~$3000

full rebuild ~$7000/8000+

rb30 bottom end conversion same as above but a bit more at a guess...

can anone help me and give me some idea of how much any of these actually cost and how reliable it would be and wat is the best option....im abit iffy on buying another old r32 motor as i didnt abuse this one and it still blew up

thanks guys

find a standard rb26 motor and replace it ~$3000

full rebuild ~$7000/8000+

rb30 bottom end conversion same as above but a bit more at a guess...

standard rb26 3k + 1-2k remove and refit

rebuild 26 5k R&R + machine work/light headwork + parts 4k depending how far

30 bottom end conversion a 2k more then the rb26 in parts

Seriously guys, I don't know where the misconception on the cost of building a 30 came from but it is only a few hundred dollars difference in building a forged 20/25/26.. the difference being in buying a $100 RB30E, tapping new tensioner locations and getting a different timing belt.

Pistons, rods, headwork, cams (unless you want to go solids), oil pumps etc are all in the same ballpark for any RB engine.

Edited by bubba

i rebuilt my own rb25det and it cost something like $2000 and took less than 2 weeks. If all you have is a busted up piston and a worn out set of bearings you can do the same. Forgies are cheaper than they have ever been (and unless your the 700hp man it wont matter which ones you use) rods are usually fine bearings are less than 150 dollars then its just new gaskets and head and main bolts etc etc. Go give it a try its not rocket science all the info you need is on these forums and a rb26 with forged pistons will be happy to well over 450 hp! ppl go over board with their builds in my opinion

head - dont touch it just pull it off check it out and put it to one side and stick it back on when your finished

bottom end - pull it apart inspect it take it to engine machinist if your not sure. Get yourself some pistons, get machinist to match pistons to bores and put pistons on rings and pistons on your old rods. Then go home and stick it together bottom ends are pretty simple follow the instructions and you cant go wrong if something looks hammered get it checked out and replace it if its oil pump and water pump you should probably replace them anyway not too expensive put that tomei oil reducer in the block and there goes the mian reasons rb26's give up the ghost. Anyway this is my 2 cents and it depends how hands on you are perhaps read up about it first if it sounds do-able then give it a go.

Edited by mrsparkle
Seriously guys, I don't know where the misconception on the cost of building a 30 came from but it is only a few hundred dollars difference in building a forged 20/25/26.. the difference being in buying a $100 RB30E, tapping new tensioner locations and getting a different timing belt.

Pistons, rods, headwork, cams (unless you want to go solids), oil pumps etc are all in the same ballpark for any RB engine.

well awd adaptor plate is $900 + labour

+ retap block for rb26 arp headstuds another $500 + labour

+ timing belt/tensioner kit $300 + labour

+ crank collar $150 + labour

(going by pro engines pricing)

and any other nitty gritty things that you may need to fit a rb30 bottom end into a GTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...