Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so it's come to a point where i really probably need to spend a bit of cash on the ol RB20 to keep it running reliably.

i.e Coilpacks, Timing belt, water pump, idler/tensioner pulley etc etc.

So i was considering an upgrade rather than sink my cash into the RB20.

Heres basically where I'm at. RB25 or SR20.

Let me frame the case each way. First of all I guess its important to point out that it's street driven on a daily basis, in traffic, and i do NOT want to be doing that with 400hp. I'm thinking around 250rwkw (Tops. Probably more around 200.) with response being the key. I do however intend on getting into a bit more circuit racing and maybe some drift events soonish. Trying to set it all up first.

Now that i've mentioned that onto the two choices.

Rb25

Pros

-Can keep the ATTESA system as long as i source it from a Stagea and run a GT-R power fc. (So I'm told.)

-Relatively cheaper if i keep the RB20 Box (Should maintain 200kw?)

-Good mid range and a fairly common swap into 32's meaning info and support should be readily available. (Ideally)

Cons

-Heavier.

-Have to get one from a Stagea or can i just get the stagea front diff/sump assembly and bolt it up to a standard rb25? Also am i gonna run into issues with my rear diff being 4.3? I THINK Stageas run 4.1? Should i just upgrade my rear diff to a GT-R item? Also running 4.1 from memory.

SR20(Please note with the SR i wont bother trying to keep the ATTESA and will just rip it all out.

Pros

-Lighter (Sr<RB in terms of weight, plus the weight savings of removing the transfer case, and front driveshafts and diff etc.)200kg?

-Better for street use being smaller capacity and easily tuned for the power range im thinking about (Yeah sounded dumb to me as well)

Cons

-More expensive as i will have to run the sr box as well, S13 Crossmember for the engine, and im not sure about the geearbox crossmember.

-Removal of Attesa means it might as well be a GTS-T

So i guess thats kind of where I'm at. I know theres a bit of infor on RB25 swaps and Im sure I could find some about SR swaps too, but I guess my case is probably a bit more peculiar being a GTS-4. I'd rather not go down the path of RB26 as I dont need the power that they entail.

Can anyone shed any light on what either swap will entail and what they think would probably be the better solution.

Cheers,

Greg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257193-r32-gts-4-engine-swap/
Share on other sites

Just briefly, based on my own experience fitting the Stagea engine:

The Stagea diff ratio is different to the GT-R (4.083 vs 4.111) You can either swap the diff from your RB20 into the Stagea engine, or swap the Stagea rear diff internals into your R32 rear diff. I initially did the front swap, then later swapped to the Stagea set (RB25 just has too much torque to require 4.375 gearing). If you run Stagea gearing, replace the speedo drive in the gearbox with the GT-R item.

I'm almost certain that the Stagea sump is not a simple bolt-up to a RWD RB25.

The original R32 gearbox seems more than capable of handling the torque. When mine was first tuned (Wolf 3D v4+), I was pushing 180 awkW (easily in excess of 200 rwkW).

Ok so it's come to a point where i really probably need to spend a bit of cash on the ol RB20 to keep it running reliably.

i.e Coilpacks, Timing belt, water pump, idler/tensioner pulley etc etc.

So i was considering an upgrade rather than sink my cash into the RB20.

Heres basically where I'm at. RB25 or SR20.

Let me frame the case each way. First of all I guess its important to point out that it's street driven on a daily basis, in traffic, and i do NOT want to be doing that with 400hp. I'm thinking around 250rwkw (Tops. Probably more around 200.) with response being the key. I do however intend on getting into a bit more circuit racing and maybe some drift events soonish. Trying to set it all up first.

Now that i've mentioned that onto the two choices.

Rb25

Pros

-Can keep the ATTESA system as long as i source it from a Stagea and run a GT-R power fc. (So I'm told.)

-Relatively cheaper if i keep the RB20 Box (Should maintain 200kw?)

-Good mid range and a fairly common swap into 32's meaning info and support should be readily available. (Ideally)

Cons

-Heavier.

-Have to get one from a Stagea or can i just get the stagea front diff/sump assembly and bolt it up to a standard rb25? Also am i gonna run into issues with my rear diff being 4.3? I THINK Stageas run 4.1? Should i just upgrade my rear diff to a GT-R item? Also running 4.1 from memory.

SR20(Please note with the SR i wont bother trying to keep the ATTESA and will just rip it all out.

Pros

-Lighter (Sr<RB in terms of weight, plus the weight savings of removing the transfer case, and front driveshafts and diff etc.)200kg?

-Better for street use being smaller capacity and easily tuned for the power range im thinking about (Yeah sounded dumb to me as well)

Cons

-More expensive as i will have to run the sr box as well, S13 Crossmember for the engine, and im not sure about the geearbox crossmember.

-Removal of Attesa means it might as well be a GTS-T

So i guess thats kind of where I'm at. I know theres a bit of infor on RB25 swaps and Im sure I could find some about SR swaps too, but I guess my case is probably a bit more peculiar being a GTS-4. I'd rather not go down the path of RB26 as I dont need the power that they entail.

Can anyone shed any light on what either swap will entail and what they think would probably be the better solution.

Cheers,

Greg

My opinion - it would be cheaper and quicker to get 200kw out of your present motor and then save up for a R32GTR or R34GTT!

if u put in an rb26 ur gona have the power u want with only a couple of bolt on mods like exhaust, cooler and abit more boost.

in my opinion it would work out cheaper seeing that it would be a much easier swap and your not going to have to buy as many parts to achieve your power goals

apart from all the headf**ks putting them into an earlier model car (It might be a tad easier on a R32 but I've seen it done twice on HR31's and both times, the actual fitting of the motor was fine, but getting it all up and running was a long and drawn out process)

I guess it's a little more involved but have you thought about going down the path of a 25/30?

I'm not really an expert on rb20's but I think you'll require the sump adapter which are about $600, an rb25 head and associated intake piping but the turbo manifold & lines should still all bolt up fine (you have to stretch them), probably also a new dump made up (or modified) and the vct line tapped & a new timing belt..

I'm not sure but I'd say the existing rb20 sump should bolt upto the sump adapter, if not rb26 sumps are pretty cheap to come by and the diff can be transfered across :)

Just a thought really - In my mind it sounds a better option as the parts are alot easier to come by!

Anyway best of luck with it!

It's not that i don't have the money for a 32gt-r or 34GTT its just that i dont want them.

Blind Elk- Do you have any more info on the swap? Any pitfalls etc? Feel free to pm me or send the details through to greg.dekwant(at) gmail.com, I'd be grateful for any insight you could give me. Cheers.

The main pitfall is retaining ATTESSA. If you are going for an aftermarket ECU, get a PnP GT-R version.

Other than that, it is a simple bolt-in proposition.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...