Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey all...good to see more R30s still goin hard just thought idd add mine to this..1985 HR30-L20ET, Pod Filter, 2.5 inch Exhaust, Lowered, 17in Evo R's, Black Bonnet :D Im in the process of making a full locked diff out of one of the other 2 cars i have to go in the good one and also planning Rb20DET or 26DETT conversion soon. Should go well me thinks.

hey guys.

im looking into DR30's, i think they're phat and a great example of old school skylines. im just curious, are their great differences between the predecessor's L20 and the DR's FJ20?(apart from the extra cam and 2 cylinders) What is the engine note like (fj20)? and is it similar to the inline 6 L20?

Thanks. Later

its a strange thing with the r30 as there are at least 6 different types of r30 engine combos' you can find, to start with you may be unlucky to get your hands on a 82 l24 non fuel injected version r30, then it went to the fuel injected l24e, at the same time there were the hr30 with the l20et and the first dr30 fj20de, the 82 fj20de put out more power than the l20et, something like 160hp to a mind blowing 141hp for the l20et,then the hr30 went to the paul newman version producing 200hp, hard to get these days with that l20et engine. what you want to look for is either the dr30 with the fj20det 190hp or the rsx intercooled version which produced 205hp about 84 or very early 85, the thing to remember is that these are factory claims and also there are both 2door and 4door versions so weight is another thing to play with as they average around 1200kgs' maxing out at around 1300kgs and starting around 1100kgs for the no frills version hr30.

i wont go into the other things like brake size and so forth or id fall asleep!!

there are so many things you can do with any r30 if you have the time and budget!! hope this has'nt scared you of as they are a great base to get a killer skyline!!

must drink more now as people are getting shitty!!

just want to point out that the 84/85 rsx version stuck it to the same year model porsche (if that is spelt wrong shot me mate jp)....

the thing is is that it took me 4 months to find out what model i bought!! so ive read and seen a lot of web sites, i was going to buy a gts-x r31 then my brother in law told me about this rs skyline 2door that he saw for sale at a wreckers?? you know what the shitty part is is that i drive a r31 every day and after all this time f%$king around with the r30 i just want to sell it and pay someone to put a RB25DET into the r31 and drive away!!

specking of interchangability (thats a hell of a word) i was sitting outside today, recovering from last night, looking at the bits and peices of r30s' in the car port and this idea came to me, would the head from the l20et work with the block for the l24e?? you see i have both an l20et and a 5door l24e just sitting there so might look at a head conversion as i have the turbo, dump pipe, manifold and turbo head doing nothing, any one have any throughts on this or advice??

how much do u want for your car (seriously)

and if u want a 25 in the 31 it aint hard.

but you'll have to change shit which u already know....well...unless u bodge it

stu- reading back now i got the wrong meaning from you top line question, didnt read it as you asking for a price$$ hence post #229

stu- yeah i tent to look at the philasofical side of things after a few jds', just getting close to the final few things to do to get her finished, boost guage is working still no tacho and the lights will be rewired, then the intercooler is put in place, then off to get a new exhaust and the piping for the intercooler, then its the ecu and single stage boost controller and last but not least new tint now when all thats done its finished to a point where it will be my daily driver. as you can see its never finished thats the shity part, just time and money!! one thing is shes a lot closer than when i first bought her!

i wont sell, at least till these things are done and its registered, or when i can import a 89 gtr for like $10,000

p.s. i've been offered $12,000 as is about 2 months ago from a bloke who saw it at the machanics very very tempting!!

who was that bloke from hong kong, with the dr who was putting, or had a 26 in his, think we lost his post with all that info before! i'd say cram is the word, i've got like 1 1/2" gap between the radiator and fan and about 1/2" at the firewall!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...