Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nice to get all this info cheers, you must have looked around alot, towords your conversion theres a hr30 4door forsale at the moment with a rb30/25 for around $20,000, are you building the engine yourself or getting one from NZ?  

try www.hlj.com for r30 models as i got the jenesis model and 2 other r30 2doors, thier very happy to take your money and depending on stock, took a week to get to me from the order date. just a question on the dash swap, with the 260km jenesis version do they use the same vertical rolling system (boost,pet,bat)or change them as well? one last thing did you have any problems with getting the badges sent over as i'm looking for the boot badges.

RSX84,

If you have the vertical barrel type gauges, you have an 82 dash, Instrument cluster. 83/4/5 clusters used a quadrant type gauge and that is the type I have. My Paul Newman is an 84 and has the quadrant gauges.

As I said earlier, Jenesis WILL NOT TRADE with us again, as he considers the Japanese domestic market is more than he can handle.

Which boot badges are you looking for, I might have what you want second hand, as I had a DR30 sedan I wrecked.

SSS Automotive has the DR front brake/strut assemblies for about $500.00 pair.

I have a set of JIC Coilovers for my HR, I bought them through Japanese Motorsport in Adelaide for $1300.00 all four, off an DR30, complete with brakes etc.

The Dr30 calipers are also bigger, still single piston, but use a bigger pad than standard, DB1184 I think, will confirm later if needed.

I have a front air dam you might like to see, email me and I will send you a pick, but it is the same as one on current Jenesis web site. I am going to make them in limited numbers later this year and should be available for about $300.00 each.

nice to get all this info cheers, you must have looked around alot, towords your conversion theres a hr30 4door forsale at the moment with a rb30/25 for around $20,000, are you building the engine yourself or getting one from NZ?  

try www.hlj.com for r30 models as i got the jenesis model and 2 other r30 2doors, thier very happy to take your money and depending on stock, took a week to get to me from the order date. just a question on the dash swap, with the 260km jenesis version do they use the same vertical rolling system (boost,pet,bat)or change them as well? one last thing did you have any problems with getting the badges sent over as i'm looking for the boot badges.

RSX,

I'm building the motor myself, using RB25DET ARIAS forged pistons in an otherwise reworked standard bottom end. Have ported the head, still standard valves and GTR spec valve springs, about 270 degree cams, adjustable cam pulleys and a Garrett GT35/40 turbo. Using about 18/20 psi and front mount intercooler, I expect to have about 340Kw at the wheels.

BUT for compliance of Engineers certificate and emmissions testing, it will be using std RB25DE 270 injectors, stock R32 RB20DET ECU and a VG30 Turbo, on std manifolds

The bottom end will be race ballanced, GTR front pully, the clutch, a single plate full faced kevlar, about 1000kg load pressure plate, 10.5 inch dia, using a VL Turbo steel billet flywheel. Water pump has been removed and replaced by Davies Craig electric pump, RB30 power steer pump with remote reservoir.

I have a standard RB20DET R31 gearbox, for rego purposes and after, have an R33 GTS 25t gearbox, but this has an electronic speedo drive, so have to do some homework to get my 260 speedo operational with new R33 gearbox.

dr30man have you considered staying with the FJ motor in its turbo form.Take one out and bolt one in...simple.Same mounts,wiring,clutch g/box etc etc.

Making 400hp at the crank on an FJ is a breeze and mine makes as much torque as any RB20 here in Perth. :(

IT is deffinately something to think about, as im sure it would be a heck of a lot easier than the RB and cheaper as far as getting it in but how about power upgrades. You say you are getting 344rw/hp, im not looking that high but i was wondering how your making those figures as i have heard the fj can take a bit to.

Thanks :burnout:

I just bought a standard 2 litre Supra intercooler for my HR30 and was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how i could hook it all up. There isn't any room to feed piping through anywhere and i was hoping someone is running one similar. I saw it done on a DR30 at the latest drift days at least i think it was a Supra intercooler.

I'm looking for a cheap but affective way of hooking it up as i don't have much money to play with.

Also, a little while ago i tried to hook up a boost controller with no success. Hooking it up isn't the problem, that all went smoothly. The problem is when it is installed, it seems to boost ok and when it comes onto full boost it dies and then boost again and is all over the place sometimes it wouldn't even boost at all when coming into higher revs where it should be. The boost gage seems to bounce around all over the place with no throttle adjustment. I was really confused, worried and removed it. The strange thing is it works fine with the standard hose that is attached and i wasn't running above standard boost with the controller, i had it turned right down. I'm really confused about it and i want to have it all in order so when i get the intercooler in i can run more boost.

Hey guys, i have an MR30 sedan, currently installing an RB20DET, looks like a nighmare to wire up, apparently the g/box mounts should bolt up... Its bolted in, but still not wired up.

I ve painted the car in 2pak, gold and put R33 disks and 4 piston calipers on front, std rear disks, adj. coilovers, fibreglass front bar, strut brace, nolathane bushes, series 1 dr30 tail lights, 16x8 watanabe's (no rubbing problems running 245/45/16), bolton 20mm spacers and a few other things. Im sure i'll run into some problems while hooking up the RB20 tho

pictures - http://www.pbase.com/crimmo

dr30turbo - if you get 2 front struts with your HR30 from paul, they will bolt in no worries, i bought the koni shocks brand new and the springs are heavy duty pedders, all came out of my car when i converted to big brakes and coilovers, they handle very well.

cool 2 see all yo r30 dudes still goin strong havent been on for ages..

id almost bought a neat red 16v Calibra bout a month ago..then thought hey ive already got a fast, comfortable sporty and hell reliable car-why buy a small unreliable german rider-im stayin with the japs.

keeping the oldskool in-great to see fellas

by the way rsx84 check your email dude.

IT is deffinately something to think about, as im sure it would be a heck of a lot easier than the RB and cheaper as far as getting it in but how about power upgrades.  You say you are getting 344rw/hp, im not looking that high but i was wondering how your making those figures as i have heard the fj can take a bit to.

Thanks  :burnout:

I bought a GT30 turbo,turbosmart wastegate,s/hand mazda injectors,hybrid intercooler and Wolf ecu.Thats it.

Standard manifolds,head,cams,throttle body...all stock.It runs 18psi boost and BP98 fuel and is a rocket!

I cant wait to fit my Tomei 272 cams and put 25psi into it!

Hey Ghost Rider, about your RB25 conversion. which mounts did you use and on which side and did you have any problems getting your sump to fit.

Ypu need the 6 cyl crossmember.

And the only RB25 bits are head +. The block is RB30, but standard R31 Skyline mounts have been used so far, but am not sure that I am happy the way the engine sits. I will look into it further as I get closer to completion

sorry to cut in here with another topic, but...

does any one know the legal limit to lower to front of a r30? is a specific height from the wheel arch to the centre of the wheel or is it that 100mm rule? i need accuarte info as im looking to take it through Regency and apparaently they're pretty picky

I bought a GT30 turbo,turbosmart wastegate,s/hand mazda injectors,hybrid intercooler and Wolf ecu.Thats it.

Standard manifolds,head,cams,throttle body...all stock.It runs 18psi boost and BP98 fuel and is a rocket!

I cant wait to fit my Tomei 272 cams and put 25psi into it!

Neither can we :D

BTW how is my cut looking :) I mean your cut hehehe

Hey guys, i have an MR30 sedan, currently installing an RB20DET, looks like a nighmare to wire up, apparently the g/box mounts should bolt up... Its bolted in, but still not wired up.

I ve painted the car in 2pak, gold and put R33 disks and 4 piston calipers on front, std rear disks, adj. coilovers, fibreglass front bar, strut brace, nolathane bushes, series 1 dr30 tail lights, 16x8 watanabe's (no rubbing problems running 245/45/16), bolton 20mm spacers and a few other things. Im sure i'll run into some problems while hooking up the RB20 tho

pictures - http://www.pbase.com/crimmo

dr30turbo - if you get 2 front struts with your HR30 from paul, they will bolt in no worries, i bought the koni shocks brand new and the springs are heavy duty pedders, all came out of my car when i converted to big brakes and coilovers, they handle very well.

Some nice pics mate - id like to find out more about your front bar - its pretty cool.

sorry to cut in here with another topic, but...

does any one know the legal limit to lower to front of a r30? is a specific height from the wheel arch to the centre of the wheel or is it that 100mm rule? i need accuarte info as im looking to take it through Regency and apparaently they're pretty picky

Mike Cash,

The 100 mm rule IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL, so be careful.

In NSW there is a MINIMUM distance between the centre of your headlights 9no matter on or off) CENTRE OF HEADLIGHTS to the ground. Check with your local authorities, like an inspection station that you know, and get the guts from them.

If the headlight to ground minimum is complied with, it also has to have a minimum ground clearance of 100 mm, but the headlight distance is THE MOST CRITICAL.

I have an MR30 Ti Hatch lowered 50 mm at the front and no problems.

BUT do it right, get new springs, don't cut the originals.

Dennis

Forget that DR30 HKS Intercooler at Option 1 Garages guys, I just bought it for my HR30 Paul Newman.

RSX84,

Matt, tried to send you pics of my 260 Speedo & front bar, but your hotmail address is either full or has fatal errors, as I could not send it to you, it was returned.

Something that is a surprise to me! we all have an ISP otherwise we can't be online, but so many people persist in using Hotmail email addresses. WHY?????????

Dennis

Mike Cash,

The 100 mm rule IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL, so be careful.

In NSW there is a MINIMUM distance between the centre of your headlights 9no matter on or off) CENTRE OF HEADLIGHTS to the ground. Check with your local authorities, like an inspection station that you know, and get the guts from them.

If the headlight to ground minimum is complied with, it also has to have a minimum ground clearance of 100 mm, but the headlight distance is THE MOST CRITICAL.

I have an MR30 Ti Hatch lowered 50 mm at the front and no problems.

BUT do it right, get new springs, don't cut the originals.

Dennis

Mate you should try getting a straight answer from our wankers at regency, depending on what time and who u speak to you will get a different answer both times...They have NO idea!!! :bs!:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...