Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rsx84: I haven't bolted the cusco down properly yet, but it looks like sweet f***all! :D

Don't know about r33 calipers fitting, im not sure if the mounts are the same, and they are bigger also. Also be aware that most wheels dont fit on after this conversion, i have 20mm bolt on spacers

I have a vg30 on the rb20, and i have a vg30 turbo on my rb25 in the r33 i had, they work a treat, only a small difference on the rb25 tho :)

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmmm no go on the sensor thing...thinking the timing is out

hoping anyways....

anyone got a workshop manual for an rb20?

oh and anyone wanna buy a vg30 turbo....?

how convenient, im looking for one at the moment. hows the condition on that

sucker? and what you askin?

crimmo: try InjectMaz for wiring. i know he's done a 30 to rb20 before and he can often beat or match prices but the best thing, he can come to you if you ask nice. pretty cheap for cash too...

also, im still in the dark with these calipers... should i get em and try, i mean if they dont fit, they can be made to fit without too much hassle, so it wont be a total waste? oh yeah, crimmo, what discs you using at the back?

anyone know the size of dr30 rear discs, the DBA thing lists something like 258 but apparaently thats wrong...

Initially, an RB20DET/HR31 gearbox and final drive 4.1:1 R200 Mechanical LSD with Cusco centre, approx 70/75 lb pre load, mainly due to having the Jenesis 260 kph Speedo.

If it doesn't handle the power, which I am expecting to be the case, I have an R33 GTS 25t gearbox as backup, but with this gearbox comes a couple of minor problems, the most primary being it's speedo drive; IT'S ELECTRONIC and am yet to work out how I can convert the electronic drive to an analogue speedo. If it can't be done I will get an electronic dash cluster assembly and sell off the 260 Jenesis Speedo.

DR rear are same as Z31. 290 x 10, but you will need DR rear trailing arms for them to be bolt on.

As for the front calliper mounts, I was told by mates in Adelaide that MR are about 88 mm spacings, mount bolts centre to centre, where DR's are 100 mm centres.

Mike, send me an email or private message and I will put you in touch with a guy in Adelaide that has done it already, or at least looked at it.

Initially, an RB20DET/HR31 gearbox and final drive 4.1:1 R200 Mechanical LSD with Cusco centre, approx 70/75 lb pre load, mainly due to having the Jenesis 260 kph Speedo.

If it doesn't handle the power, which I am expecting to be the case, I have an R33 GTS 25t gearbox as backup, but with this gearbox comes a couple of minor problems, the most primary being it's speedo drive; IT'S ELECTRONIC and am yet to work out how I can convert the electronic drive to an analogue speedo. If it can't be done I will get an electronic dash cluster assembly and sell off the 260 Jenesis Speedo.

if you use the speedo cable from the gtr its not electronic and has been used by a few r31 boys with the same problem!!

if you use the speedo cable from the gtr its not electronic and has been used by a few r31 boys with the same problem!!

I got your drift!

Bit slow today.

You mean use the drive assembly from the GTR, to convert back to cable.

I try.

looking at 3 hundy for the vg30 turbo.

bought it looking for big power....no just want to get my shitbox going so need the cash

nothing wrong with it, even went to the trouble of buying new banjo bolts for it.

i mounted it up to my manifold, fitted like a franger, didnt have the right outlet elbow tho

pm me if anyone is interested.

as for the workshop manual its ok im going to buy one to sort it all out, thanks tho.

Anything is possible. Just that DR30 not HR31 struts would make it a whole lot easier.

A fair bit of fabrication is needed otherwise.

Hi guys-thought I may be able to assist a bit.As you know,the DR30 has bigger brakes than the HR30,so diferent mounting holes,etc.I've had no experiance with MR30's,but believe them to be close(or same) as HR30.

DR30's have the 100mm mount hole spacing.HR31's(Japanese Skyline) also have 100mm spacing.

R31's(ausie) have smaller spacing,same as HR/MR30's.

R31(aussie) GTS have same struts/mounts as HR31's.

Type m and GTR 4 pot calipers have 100mm spacing.

Hope this helps (somewhat) :thumbsup:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...