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hey peeps, im hopefully about to be the proud new owner of R30_turbo's car.

for a refresh its a '84 Paul Newman L20et

anways, im wondering what simple things can i do/change to make it more responsive?

ive notcied that the stock AFM is highly SMALL and restrictive. what can i do about this? will a Z32 AFM simply bolt on? like one of the 80mm ones or something like that?

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more free flowing exhaust is a great start, 3" all the way....with the afm swap you might find that there would be other things involved that would = $$$ a new programable ECU to work with the afm, stick to the basics as they work

1000 posts woops....

As capacity increases height increases as i think they keep the same/similar bores just longer stroke. although i can't confim for L20A's cos ive never looked at one.

IE if you mix and match a LD28 (diesel) crank to a L28 block with something like L26 rods and KA24 Pistons you come out with a L31

i have a program for 6 cylinder L series engines at home which calcs comp ratios etc from mixing diferent parts etc

As a matter of interest! does anyone know the differences of L series 6 cylinder engines?

Is their hieghts the same or does it increase as the capacity increases?

How far can the L20 be stretched etc, etc.

more free flowing exhaust is a great start, 3" all the way....with the afm swap you might find that there would be other things involved that would = $$$ a new programable ECU to work with the afm, stick to the basics as they work

1000 posts woops....

Only befitting that you posted it, as you did start this MARATHON originally.

But back to info, 3 inch would be to big I think, the exhaust guys roughly work on 1 inch per litre + 50% for turbo, so if it's mandrel bent, 2.5 would be plenty, but if press bent 2.75 would be the go, as the restriction in the bends is the resultant flow rate. My Paul Newman exhaust is a press bent 2.5 and it flows easy.

As for flow meters, I would look at Series 1 R31's, as the air box arrangement is very nearly identical, I know it's not turbo, but it is a 3L engine, or source an L28ET from Japan.

And further to my previous post, can you get 2800 from the L20 block by stroking with 280Z crank & rods.

Cheers, :ghost:

As a matter of interest! does anyone know the differences of L series 6 cylinder engines?

Is their hieghts the same or does it increase as the capacity increases?

How far can the L20 be stretched etc, etc.

are you talking full rebuilt to increase the capacity, some of the n/a z car L28 engines run 3L+ capacitys, its the block your talking about is'ant it? looking back phat mr30 answered quicker...

As capacity increases height increases as i think they keep the same/similar bores just longer stroke. although i can't confim for L20A's cos ive never looked at one.

IE if you mix and match a LD28 (diesel) crank to a L28 block with something like L26 rods and KA24 Pistons you come out with a L31

i have a program for 6 cylinder L series engines at home which calcs comp ratios etc from mixing diferent parts etc

Next question:

Is there size/capacity casting marks on the block?

If I wanted to make my PNV a sleeper looking all stock & standard, could I get an L28 block & change the engine numbers to L20 and get away with it, or has it L28 on the side.

Next question:

Is there size/capacity casting marks on the block?

If I wanted to make my PNV a sleeper looking all stock & standard, could I get an L28 block & change the engine numbers to L20 and get away with it, or has it L28 on the side.

stamped into the block i'm affraid..not the eazyist thing to find though..

As for flow meters, I would look at Series 1 R31's, as the air box arrangement is very nearly identical, I know it's not turbo, but it is a 3L engine, or source an L28ET from Japan.

Cheers, :ghost:

yeah the car already has a 3inch mandrel system all the way thru fromt he turbo.

so if i were to get an AFM from an R31 it will theoretically just plug in and bolt on, crank engine and free-flowing fun?

yeah the car already has a 3inch mandrel system all the way thru fromt he turbo.

so if i were to get an AFM from an R31 it will theoretically just plug in and bolt on, crank engine and free-flowing fun?

If it has the STOCK T25 turbo on it, source yourself a T25 from an FJ20DET. To look at, they are identical in evey way, they bolt onto the manifold the same, oil lines etc, all the same, just rear housing is 0.68 instead of 0.37 standard.

It will spool up easier and faster and supply more boost, but should be intercooled, even a little one, if boosting over about 6-8 lb.

If it has the STOCK T25 turbo on it, source yourself a T25 from an FJ20DET. To look at, they are identical in evey way, they bolt onto the manifold the same, oil lines etc, all the same, just rear housing is 0.68 instead of 0.37 standard.

It will spool up easier and faster and supply more boost, but should be intercooled, even a little one, if boosting over about 6-8 lb.

FJ20 came with a T3 as standard, best to my knowledge the first T25's were on the CA18DET....

Next question:

Is there size/capacity casting marks on the block?

If I wanted to make my PNV a sleeper looking all stock & standard, could I get an L28 block & change the engine numbers to L20 and get away with it, or has it L28 on the side.

yeh they have L28********** stamped on them in the usual position.

bear in mind mine was originally an l24 and now its a l28 no mod plate nothing, just notified the rego department?

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