Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just to add mine has been sitting with coolant in it for at least 16 months, took off the hoses to the radiator 2 weeks ago, which ment it emptyed the coolant out, i forgot it was full, it was still as clean as the day in went in no discolouration at all..

mine busted as i driving home from a drift sess, not nice getting covered in hot water!

What sort of fuel economy do you guys get?

I do almost all of my driving around town (plus hills runs on the way to uni sometimes) and the DR is getting a consistent 10.5L/100km - 11.4L/100km which I'm pretty bloody happy about

Just outta interest. did u fix those boost leaks from your car at all???

Have u had many issues with cops with your mobile as well?? Im almost worried about driving mine when its finished simply cause of all the cop issues im hearing about atm...

Well... I think all the boost leaks are gone because it would be running rich if they weren't and I'd be using more fuel. BUT I do still get a fair bit of unburnt petrol sticking to the back of the car, though I can't see a cloud behind me at night when I floor it now.

I haven't had any problems yet (touch wood) and thats driving from Magill to Flinders and Para Vista most days. I don't drive it around a lot at night though, and I certainly don't drive it through town or at certain locations near your place. Plus as best as I know I don't have anything noted next to my name when they check my rego so they don't have any particular reason to 'randomly' pull me over. They do seem to look at the offset plate when I drive past them though, particularly bike cops.

We're also trying to get some Law Students Association bumper stickers made up because I think that might be a partial deterrent to cops trying to bullshit their way into f*cking me over if they know that I know where I stand and how to kick up a fuss

Plus from the front my car looks like a MR30 with no grille now anyway roflmao

hey if da R31 heater coil fits the R30 say so, cause i cooked mine when i overheated the car dorifting!
Maybe we can all learn something, if the R31 core is the same, you can tell us, but it has to be exact, because there isn't much space in the heater box where it fits.

i bypassed the heater for summer too but being winter and being out the other night was minus 1 degree in the city my power windows froze open????(i cant work it out either but thats what im told) i had to get some heat in the icebox skyline.

so heres the story...

1.)

the best quote to get it fixed from a mechanic place in Launceston was an estimated $800 and up to $1000 (actually a stoner looking bogan quoted $125 but he wasnt touching my car no way besides i guessed that was just the part!!!) this was mostly cos no-one i could find had been inside an r30 before?? said theyd have to get one sent from JAP if at all..

2.)

by the way its a heater core not heater coil- a small looking radiator with two pipes coming out of the top, this can either rust like a radiator with old age or abuse or the rubber or plastic O rings can bulge and leak. It is a fairly common thing with older cars and the r30 nissan had "plastic" surrounds so melting was common-thankfully the japanese have now discovered "copper"!

3.)

so with uncles help pulled the dash apart (pretty major job) and discovered that the very 1st nissan pintara models heater core is very similar and only required minor modifications to the underdash to fit it in. a pintara core cost $275 from canberra

4.)

DO NOT SOURCE A R31 heater core ($125) for this job!!! despite some mechanics saying this car is the same as the r31 so u can interchange all the parts... the r31 heater core pipes are totally different to the r30 and will not fit (even with sledge hammer skills)so dont get it done by a mechanic unless they realise r31 will not fit and is not the same... u need to use an old pintara heater core..

and PS if u can do it yourself.. and have 1.5 days to spare, do it, it saved me up to $700 and u learn alot about your car in the process.

goodluck...

Cool.Hey drop me a line when you're comming through! :)

by the way 0HR-30T

i didnt mention before cos i thought u drove r30 but i did see your car in port when i was there..if its a black 2 door R31 GTS-X or passage or similar, saw the beast once at lighthouse beach and had a peek inside once outside the petrol station in town...looks neat...btw missing that Port sun down here in the ice.

by the way 0HR-30T  

i didnt mention before cos i thought u drove r30 but i did see your car in port when i was there..if its a black 2 door R31 GTS-X or passage or similar, saw the beast once at lighthouse beach and had a peek inside once outside the petrol station in town...looks neat...btw missing that Port sun down here in the ice.

Talk about a delayed responce! :( haha.Yes,I do drive the black HR31GTS-X!!

FYI,the Passage is the imported pillarless 4 door.GTS-X's are coupes.

I live at Lighthouse beach!! and Im betting the petrol station in town was Shell?

YOU BASTARD!!!! why didn't you come and say G'day! :):D :wavey:

I didn't notice anyone looking at my car :) It would be neat,if it wasn't for that faded roof! I now have 16x8 front and 16x9 BBS mesh wheels on it,if I didn't at that point :wassup:

So if anyone's in Port,and you stop this car,come and say hello!! It's the only HR31 on the road in town at the moment!!! So no excuses !! :D:D:D :)

Is your car at Crimmos Shane?

It looks like theres a Tekamon in the left driveway

Not unless it suddenly grew legs and moved there by iself..Last time i checked it was in my driveway still, all snug in its winter clothes ;)

There was something else in front of it, could only see it from the other side as I drove past

Hurry up and get your car on the road, I want to see more coupes on the streets :)

Yeah yeah excuses excuses :) hehe

Umm my car?? Yes well *shrugs* *mutters something about having parts that he's paid for whilst walking off* Once i get all that won't take long to get it back on the road and running again, but yeah don't hold your breathe on it to soon i don't feel hey :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...