Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

now i'm running standard pretty much everything on my GTT

i've only got basically a full turbo back exhaust (bar the front pipe - Blitz NUR Spec from cat onwards) and a Blitz Air Filter

HKS SSQV and that's about it!

now, i've already placed a deposit on the big f*ck off massive TRUST/GREDDY (genuine) front mount that can handle pretty much any power (unless you're going into drag applications) and i've also placed a deposit on a Vi-Pec ECU (Australian equivalent of a Power FC i'm sure most of you have heard of it)

anyway, the reason for the deposits is because i'm studying full time so have to take things easy as they come along... in saying that, i have heaps of spare parts to get rid of that can fund some more modifications, i'm curious though because i know that the Front Mount can handle more than enough boost that i want to apply and the ECU has a built in Boost Controller so i don't need to worry about those mods, know i don't want to run too much boost but the thing is, being a Nylon Wheel the GTT Turbo i know doesn't like more than 12psi

a few weeks back i had a friendly run in with a 180sx and he slaughtered me, only to find out he was running 15psi on a T28 (unsure if it was Ball Bearing) and obviously i'm only running the stock 7psi

my main question is, with the planned modifications i have in mind (and out of curiosity) how hard will it be to fit a T28 BB (like will it be a bolt on) and will i see much gain whether it be response or power wise?

any help would be much appreciated, i know i'm noob and that is exactly why i'm seeking any friendly advice from anyone here!

i was looking into upgrading to a HKS GT-RS but i've decided to take it a bit easier, please... i need to know!

thank you so much!

regards,

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

t28 on a t3 manifold on the RB?

get the GT-RS :laugh:

next thing holding you back would be injectors and maybe clutch

when thats done, smash in more boost on the RS

another thing is.... 180 is a couple hundred kg lighter

so you will need more power then him

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4452992
Share on other sites

i would finish off that exhaust before putting in ecu.

Otherwise later down the track when u change it u will need to re tune it again.

T28s are getting a bit old now ? I remember my friend using a T28 in his accord and he blew it up!.

Unsure on the boost controller on this aussie ecu, but if its anything like the powerfc boost controller i would recommend getting a 2nd unit.. maybe hks evc 5 or something of the similar or a gredy pro if ur after soemthing cheaper.. As the power fc one doesnt hold the boost all that well...

thats all i can think of atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4452993
Share on other sites

pretty sure T28s dont bolt up the the stock manifold (T3 flange) you need and adaptor plate

at least this was the case when i was looking for my new turbo

i went with the gt-rs,easy direct bolt on(i did it myself one saturday in my shed), good response and im making 300rwhp even with stock injectors (i have apexi pfc) and a other supporting mods

which is enough to chop most 180s :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4453267
Share on other sites

thanks for the advice on the exhaust Brendan, i'm just gathering up a new muffler and trying to sell my Blitz NUR Spec and get Kermit to make me up a whole new exhaust with the front pipe as i already have the dump and cat replacement pipe

and Steve and Eric, advice taken in

and Karl, i think i'll be going your pathway, i mean if the T28 bolted straight up i wouldn't have minded in using that temporarily while i wait for some $$$ for the GT-RS but yeah looks like i might just hang it out with the stock turbo for now and just wind up the boost to about 12psi

how much do you guys estimate that the car will make with just the ECU, 12psi, Front Mount, Air Filter and Exhaust? at least 250rwhp?

i'll be happy with that in the meantime for sure... any ideas peeps?

and much appreciated on the prompt responses compared to the FI section

cheers,

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4453729
Share on other sites

i'm homo with my search function as i'm useless with computers, thought the FI section would be awesome though so gave that a shot - didn't work

anyway, car will be leaving the market soon enough, however after the makeover it will be back on the market Rhys

another question though;

how much would high-flowing the standard turbo cost approximately and how much boost would it be able to handle safely?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4453777
Share on other sites

T28 won't bolt onto the stock manifold; adopter will be needed; then there is the issue with the line, and dump pipe.

Highflow turbo will bolt straight on. can use stock lines/dump pipe/intake pipe etc;

However i have heard people having issuing with highflow turbos; whether its just a coincidence or not will need some research on your part.

GT-RS is a good turbo kit, comes with everything you need and should give you between 300-350rwhp but down side is the price cost is upwards of 3k atm due to exchange rate

Edited by [Michael]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4454330
Share on other sites

Andrew... if you're not making 250hp with 12psi you have problems. I'm making 260hp with only 9psi on mine, so 12 should be closer to the 270-280 mark. I'd agree with what most people have said here. Go the GT-RS option. Also look at the 2835, but I still reckon the GT-RS is a little better suited. It seems to be the way most people go with good results :bunny:

Just a suggestion. Maybe look at upgrading your clutch before your turbo if you're on a tight budget. My clutch is getting pretty bad and is getting changed in the next couple of weeks. You don't want to be saving for a clutch for ages while its already dead lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4457783
Share on other sites

GTRS is the go, have a few payments to take care of before this can be considered

and Ryan, i'll take your advice, i'd do the turbo and clutch at the same time i guess, FMIC and Front/Dump together, then i'll run 12psi (which should be safe until i have enough mullah for the turbo and clutch)

should be fun until then, i've made up my mind everyone, thanks for all the advice!!!

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259170-r34-gtt/#findComment-4458879
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...